Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

By base I presume you mean idle?

It will depend on your cams, and if you want it to idle nice... and not stall out when the aircon comes on.

I set 20 degrees at a 900 RPM idle, and advance to 22-23 degrees below 900 rpm, and also in the next load cell up. When the aircon goes on, or electrical load increases, the engine produces more torque with the ignition advance and it will auto-stabilise back around 900 again.

RB25's advance the intake cam at idle which improves vacuum and decreases lobe seperation making the idle smoother. You'll find that auto's vs manuals have differing idle advance settings too, to accomodate for the load of being at idle in gear with a torque convertor slipping but on the verge of engaging. Im pretty sure the RB30 manuals are 15 as per the manual, and 20 for the autos. Rb25's with VCT change the rules by making the idle more stable by advancing the intake cam. It is then retarded off idle and advanced again for top end power.

By base I presume you mean idle?

It will depend on your cams, and if you want it to idle nice... and not stall out when the aircon comes on.

I set 20 degrees at a 900 RPM idle, and advance to 22-23 degrees below 900 rpm, and also in the next load cell up. When the aircon goes on, or electrical load increases, the engine produces more torque with the ignition advance and it will auto-stabilise back around 900 again.

RB25's advance the intake cam at idle which improves vacuum and decreases lobe seperation making the idle smoother. You'll find that auto's vs manuals have differing idle advance settings too, to accomodate for the load of being at idle in gear with a torque convertor slipping but on the verge of engaging. Im pretty sure the RB30 manuals are 15 as per the manual, and 20 for the autos. Rb25's with VCT change the rules by making the idle more stable by advancing the intake cam. It is then retarded off idle and advanced again for top end power.

Yes base timing at idle is what i was talking, mine seems to like 15 degrees rather than 20, using the rb26 head, with some decent cams.

need to plug in consult and lock it then set to whatever the ecu is reading... can never assume. Its common for the factory ecu to swing 5 degrees at idle and if you dont lock it its very easy to get it wrong... base ignition is the root of many engine issues... i reckon it is one of the most common owner induced mistakes we have to rectify for customers....

Running autronic sm4.

Just wondering why some rb motors are 15degrees and some 20?

If you running an SM4 you can run delta ignition control. It also has an rpm rate varaible so that you can apply positive or negative ignition changes based on the direction of rpm change - not just under or overspeed rpm event. Great ECU btw - my favorite. Who's pushing the buttons?

Ah, yes i seen that function, would be great for cars without idle solenoid.

After some fiddling with settings, i got mine running well using the stock solenoid.

Its great for cars with idle control valves also. You will find that most manufactures run both an idle control valve and delta ignition control. Engine speed responds alot faster to a change ignition request than a change in idle air flow....

PM sent..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...