Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the car should run with the afm unplugged, but not very well. it may need some throttle to run, but it should run. from memory it won't rev through the full rev range though, as it will be in limp mode. it may simply stall if you unplug the afm while the car is running, but you should be able to get the car to start/run.

as for how the engine can run without the ecu knowing how much air is going in, it still has the tps value and rpm and o2 sensor which it can use to estimate what is going on. i've unplugged the AFM on a few of my cars before and all have run well enough to drive with it disconnected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419102-question-on-afm/#findComment-6734409
Share on other sites

I didn't plug mine back in properly once after cleaning it, ran fine until I hit 2000 rpm then it went straight into limp mode and wouldn't rev any higher. Perhaps Nissan designed it to work under 2000 so you could limp home if it died while driving. On another point, why do you want to unplug your AFM anyway?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419102-question-on-afm/#findComment-6734471
Share on other sites

Maybe its just a power fc thing or z32 afm thing or something to do with my car but it won't even start with it unplugged. And I thought the load value was calculated with tps, af-v and the rpm is obviously from the CAS.

But anyway. My car doesn't seem to like it. O2 sensor is only narrowband so cant really provide to much feedback and as far as I know only does anything at cruise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419102-question-on-afm/#findComment-6734928
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...