Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So looked around about this and it's very hard to find someone with exactly the same problem so here it goes for my problem and hopefully will give reference to others in the future.

Will try get a video ASAP

So car is fine and dandy as I'm driving along, on hot days but don't know if it's the weather that has anything to do with it as I work nights at the moment and have no chance of driving her when it's cool. All of a sudden I driving along and te car will drop maybe 200 rpm and it will feel rumbly as it idles. Now when I accelerate it feels as if te car is choking on something , I hit 4000 revs and it starts to go away but tends to missfire a bit , at this point. Get home turn her off, drive later it's fine untill later on while driving again . Note sometimes it had gone away while driving. So I've changed spark plus and cleaned the throttle body as I thought maybe its got gunk in there, spark plugs were a bit flooded so those were changed to new ones which the girl at repco stuffed up and have me platinums instead of copper.

So what's my next step to check, I checked the coilpacks and they seemed to be clean.

Your time and effort in assisting me will be greaty appreciated

And the car of course

1996 r33 gtr series 2

Stock engine

Straight through exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419190-my-r33-likes-to-chuga-chug-chug/
Share on other sites

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

best to trouble shoot and solve yourself before getting to the tune/dyno as if it isnt they will be charging you top dollar to trouble shoot your car, as well as to fix the problem that you could have easily done so from home...

Okay well then I'm changing mechanics, as mine said the tune should fix if but failed to tell me what it was as he didn't know what it was. Ill give another place a go, try run the car and bring it to them with the problem, if they can't tell by a quick drive ill ask to book a dyno run and have it faulting before I jump on

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

+1

Don't waste your time doing anything else before doing this. Speaking from experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
×
×
  • Create New...