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For Sale:

RB25/26 6Boost Top Mount Manifold

- Brand New

- T4 Divided

- Single 60mm Wastgate outlet

$900ono

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Turbosmart 60mm Progate

- Brand New

- Blue

- In Box

$550ono

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MagnaFuel Reg

-Dash 8 male fittings

-SpecoMeter Oil Filled Gauge

- Mounting Bracket

$250ono

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Blitz Racing Radiator Suit GTR R32

- Brand New

- Type ZS

- In Box

$500ono

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Edited by BMYHOE

RB25 Cylinder Head

HKS Drop in Intake Cam

Tomei Drop in Ex Cam

VCT Intake Cam Gear

-been sitting around as a spare for a few years as a spare but is no longer needed.

-unknow condition would need a full service

-was making 380rwkw with this head

-external VCT Fitting

-missing EX1 Cam Cap

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$900ono

Edited by BMYHOE

Privat Rims (unknow model)

2x 19x8 235/35R19 Ironman Type z Tyres 50%

2x 19x10 295/30R19 Dunlop Sprot Max 10%

unsure of offset but they sit well on a r33 skyline

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$750ono

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RB25DET Roker covers

- Painted Black

- Dash 10 Male Fittings Welded on

- Coil cover

- Gaskets

- could do with a repaint

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$250ono

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HKS RB26 Fuel Rail

-Brand New

-11mm

-2x Dash 6 Male Fittings

-Mounting Bracket, spacers & Bolts

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$250ono

AP Racing Front Brake Kit 4 Pot

- Brand New in boxes

- Mounting Bracket to suit Nissan s13/14/15

- Braided Lines

- Freddo Racing Pads

- Ap Racing fluid

- DBA Kangaroo Paw Rotors

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$2000

Located Near Liverpool NSW

PM Me for contact details.

Which cam?

Might not seperate at this stage someone could want the complete setup

how much for just the cam pm me please also can u get the part number off it thanks.

BUMP...

guys read each add carefully as some parts come new in box and others dont.

and if you are 15years old please dont waste my time.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • It's a fun daydream but personally just looking at OEM implementations of twincharged engines like the recent Volvo engines it makes my head hurt. So, so much complexity compared to even other GDI turbo inline 4s. 
    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
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