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I've got a problem with my R34 GTT S2.

I can't unlock the drivers door, either with remote, key, inside the car or anyway.

You can hear a click when you attempt to open but it won't unlock, with the key it doesn't rotate fully, only half or less, like something is stuck or broke. Passenger side is fine.

My question is, if I can't open the door, how can I remove the door panel to check anything? If the key won't work or manually pulling the inside lock wouldn't what is the most likely cause?

I haven't checked fuses yet, but I couldnt see any central locking on diagrams but will have a look.

Second, where can you buy locking motors etc, I've had a quick look online but couldn't find anywhere?

Please, need some help lol

Cheers

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Where are you located? Sounds like one of the metal rods inside have dislodged. If you're in Sydney, I might be able to help.

Melbourne :( Cheers though :) I hope its only a rod. But how can I check if I can't open the door to remove the panel???

Your lock actuator is shagged. Confirm that when you pull the door trim off. If a rod was jammed it would still open when you use the button but not the key. Electronic shit

But how can I remove the door trim if I can't open the door?

Secondly, where would I even look to buy a lock actuator? Haven't had any luck with Google.

Cheers

well can you open the door from the passenger side it should just open from the inside without touching the lock. as for what to do if you cant open have no idea. may have to suck it up and cut you door trim apart (last resort). and get another actuator from a import wreckers or negen, just jap ect. and search for oem products.

as for if its just a rod, you can pop out the trim on the door handle (inside) remove 1 screw and pull the handle and lock out. then you can start playing with the rods from there

Ok, UPDATE:

Firstly thanks everyone. I've managed to open the door by jiggling the lock and door handle. (took a good 20 minutes first time)

The bars look fine to me, and with some WD-40 on the white box at the rear I can semi consistently open the door with key or inside lock. If not jiggle with handle. It still feels locked up or, resistant n not smooth.

However, now I get no 'click' when I use keyless or with the interior lock switch. It doesn't attempt to lock the drive side at all, no movement whatsoever.

So it looks as though that white box at the rear of the door panel underneath the outside lock, has shat itself.?

1. What is it called? Locking mechanism??

2. Where on earth can I source one from other than wreckers? Or wreckers that would actually have skylines?

It's a bit beyond me to fit that so I'll get an auto electrician or something, however I'd like to purchase it myself.

Cheers for everyone's help.

Edited by MizzaR34

Ok, UPDATE:

Firstly thanks everyone. I've managed to open the door by jiggling the lock and door handle. (took a good 20 minutes first time)

The bars look fine to me, and with some WD-40 on the white box at the rear I can semi consistently open the door with key or inside lock. If not jiggle with handle. It still feels locked up or, resistant n not smooth.

However, now I get no 'click' when I use keyless or with the interior lock switch. It doesn't attempt to lock the drive side at all, no movement whatsoever.

So it looks as though that white box at the rear of the door panel underneath the outside lock, has shat itself.?

1. What is it called? Locking mechanism??

2. Where on earth can I source one from other than wreckers? Or wreckers that would actually have skylines?

It's a bit beyond me to fit that so I'll get an auto electrician or something, however I'd like to purchase it myself.

Cheers for everyone's help.

Go see brett at phatt audio concepts in braeside

He will sort it for you , tell him troy from sa sent ya

And note series 2 R34 use different electronics that do not interchange with S1 cars , s2 started late 8/2000 with smd electronics in the switches not normal traditional parts

If you were close i would pop over to sort it out

Lots of broken solder joints on nissans here , the roads are too rough

Smd devices require more skills and equipment to fix up

Go see brett at phatt audio concepts in braeside

He will sort it for you , tell him troy from sa sent ya

And note series 2 R34 use different electronics that do not interchange with S1 cars , s2 started late 8/2000 with smd electronics in the switches not normal traditional parts

Thanks for the S2 note, mine is S2 dec 2000 build. (1 friggin month off 2001, lol)

I'm from Melbourne but now live 2-ish hrs north of Melbourne so I'll def give Brett a call at PAC and see if he can help, THANKS A TONNE! Really appreciate it. I'm sorta clueless when it comes to this stuff, or where to get repairs. I let Chasers handle all my engine stuff, and this is the first fault Ives had with my car in 3-4yrs.

Cheers.

Any other options would still be appreciated. :)

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