Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The first throttle body is open slightly so when you open the throttle body on the plenum; it sucks air into the engine just like usual, it just takes a split second to rev up because the piping between the two throttle bodies has to fill up with air.

There is a duct in the front bar right in front of the pod.

The air is trapped inside the cooler and it can't escape until the throttle body is forced completely open, then the air rushes into the engine.

The dyno sheet doesn't lie dude.

If the first TB has to be forced open, and the second TB is connected to the accelerator, when you press the accelerator you're going to get negative pressure between the to TBs.

I understand that with a big enough scoop and enough speed you'll get the pressure before the first TB. But until then I still don't see the point.

There is negative pressure between the two throttle bodies initially, which is the slight lag that I mentioned earlier on.

This is overcome in literally half a second. Remember, the first throttle body is slightly open and that negative pressure is turned into positive pressure when the piping between the two throttle bodies is full of air.

Once that happens (the lag isn't notice me in the real world) it's like driving normally. When the cooler fills up to the point that the air forces the first TB open fully, it's a boosting effect and the car rockets off phenomenally.

There is really no better way to have an N/A car set up.

ok but wont the negative pressure just suck the first throttle body open?

im looking at this canned air system and wondering if it could be used to solve this problem actually...basically you store it in a bottle like NOS...and release a short blast into the pipeline between the throttle bodies to help get the car moving off the line with no lag....

maybe this stuff could work

http://www.canlessair.com/

In fact we may even be able to use NOS as well for take off and then when the extra boost comes from the intercooler it will already be accelerating hard and it should even be able to keep up with those pesky ss commodores easily

ok but wont the negative pressure just suck the first throttle body open?

im looking at this canned air system and wondering if it could be used to solve this problem actually...basically you store it in a bottle like NOS...and release a short blast into the pipeline between the throttle bodies to help get the car moving off the line with no lag....

maybe this stuff could work

http://www.canlessair.com/

In fact we may even be able to use NOS as well for take off and then when the extra boost comes from the intercooler it will already be accelerating hard and it should even be able to keep up with those pesky ss commodores easily

A mate has one of those Can Less Air things... ...I bet him $500.oo to fire it up his ass... ...Filled him with so much air it made him burp!!!...

A mate has one of those Can Less Air things... ...I bet him $500.oo to fire it up his ass... ...Filled him with so much air it made him burp!!!...

Mate let's not bullshit aye, I can't stand people who come online and talk utter crap.

If you're joking, then fair enough, but you and I both know the implications that firing compressed air in ones asshole would have, and if he did it, he'd have more to worry about than the $500.

Edited by kawasakirider

Mate let's not bullshit aye, I can't stand people who come online and talk utter crap.

If you're joking, then fair enough, but you and I both know the implications that firing compressed air in ones asshole would have, and if he did it, he'd have more to worry about than the $500.

I made the bet... ...he never went through with it...

I guess I'm still having trouble understanding why you're adding more restriction on the intake.

I had a HQ Panel Van with a 308 putting out almost 400hp and it was always my understanding that the more air the N/A could suck in the better. Get out on the highway doing more than 80kmh and the bonnet scoop would put the positive pressure on the intake.

The pics of the orange car don't show how positive pressure could be applied to the intake. The pod is just hanging there. If air takes the path of least resistance, then it's just going to flow around the pod and straight under the car. There is no scoop to direct the air into the pod.

I made the bet... ...he never went through with it...

I guess I'm still having trouble understanding why you're adding more restriction on the intake.

I had a HQ Panel Van with a 308 putting out almost 400hp and it was always my understanding that the more air the N/A could suck in the better. Get out on the highway doing more than 80kmh and the bonnet scoop would put the positive pressure on the intake.

The pics of the orange car don't show how positive pressure could be applied to the intake. The pod is just hanging there. If air takes the path of least resistance, then it's just going to flow around the pod and straight under the car. There is no scoop to direct the air into the pod.

Well does the dyno sheet tell a story or does it mean nothing? There is a duct going to the pod and the pod does take air in through it. The whole idea of a restriction is to build pressure, as I've stated all along.

You don't have to try this, it's of no consequence to me if you do this mod or not.

You can try it and make your own INFORMED opinion, or you can just be an armchair expert and argue with me. I've provided dyno sheets, pics and information, you and others have just said it doesn't make sense.

The figures don't lie. I know a dyno is just a tuning tool and shouldn't be relied upon, but there's roughly a 25% power increase showing in that dyno sheet. Explain it to me if my mods don't work?

Well does the dyno sheet tell a story or does it mean nothing? There is a duct going to the pod and the pod does take air in through it. The whole idea of a restriction is to build pressure, as I've stated all along.

You don't have to try this, it's of no consequence to me if you do this mod or not.

You can try it and make your own INFORMED opinion, or you can just be an armchair expert and argue with me. I've provided dyno sheets, pics and information, you and others have just said it doesn't make sense.

The figures don't lie. I know a dyno is just a tuning tool and shouldn't be relied upon, but there's roughly a 25% power increase showing in that dyno sheet. Explain it to me if my mods don't work?

My interest in this thread was initially as a bit of a lark. "Intercooler on and N/A, haha". But you have really got me interested now. And that's why I'm asking the questions I'm asking. You've presented a setup that is a little unusual and yes, my first response is that it doesn't make sense. But I hope by asking the questions I'm asking, I'll get a better understanding of how you came up with this setup and why you went with it. After all. Isn't that why we're all here. To learn and educate each other on the cars we love?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, I'm not an a-hole, ha ha!   I do like the colour match. Some of the carbon fibre wraps are quite freaking horrible. There's one a local company I know uses, and it looks damn good! Also very very expensive per metre to buy! ha ha ha It might be cheaper to respray the roof than use the good CF Wrap, ha ha!
    • Please noooooooo 😭 As for wrap, no thank you mate, I've seen and used "carbon fibre" wrap before, and for these hard tops, they look soooo good when colour matched Like this >>>
    • That depends, someone might offer me a good price to resell it Mark... Ha ha ha!   I can get it wrapped in a really nice looking carbon fiber vynil if you want?
    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
×
×
  • Create New...