Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up is Teflon lines a necessary or myth thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419440-presision-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

the Kando lines are fine

all the precision turbos will be pretty laggy on a normal RB20. more fun could be had from a smaller more cost effective option.

what kando have you got on it now? are you getting the most from that, before you go bigger? to my knowledge the RB20 will start to show its constraints closer to the 300kw mark.

Yer I agree with the turbo it's a tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up .... tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

To be fair your turbo would have to be one of the better matches you could get capable of hitting 300kw (on E85?) on an RB20. The Precision turbos are generally speaking targetting much more power than you are after and will be laggier than the 20G - I am guessing you want similar power to the 20G but with less lag if you can help it?

Check Roys on here 300kw with TD06

His original post said he was inspired by Roy's and went a Kando equivalent originally - can even see it in my quote above

As above the Precision items are generally aimed at more power than 300 with high pressure ratios. You will be giving away response instead of gaining.

I would stick with the current turbo and just work on improving the setup in whole. Make sure that all your intake piping and exhaust is done well and no issues. From there I would invest in a flex capable ECU as you will probably pick up some off boost torque and get closer to the 300 mark once you move to ethanol.

I dare say the move to flex will give you exactly what your looking for (assuming your car is set up well as is).

Good luck mate, sounds like a nice car already.

Yer I read every review on the turbo before buying it cheap and reliable IMO

Even looked at at rb24 but well even at mates rates that shit is expensive

300kw would be great and with Roy's surprised me with the money he spent in good upgrades list power

Seams simple is better so still looking at cams and head porting just to get the best from it but really it comes down to sensible mods not omg its brand Name stuff I must have it!! But I have a problem with oil pumps aswell what cheap upgrades are there can only find nitto ones

Thanks for all your help guys will be a while till it gets sorted as I work away I have a build up page started so will update it

Good stuff mate it sounds like your on the right track.

Personally I wouldn't port or cam an RB20, they are pretty sweet as they are provided you dont expect way over 300kw. Moving to an adaptronic ecu or a Link G4 will give you the ability to run a GM ethanol content sensor and can get a flex tune done.

That will give you the ability to fill up with 98 for the results you have already, or pop in E85/eflex for the results your chasing. Changing to ethanol should give you the additional spool and power your actually looking for, and be the best bang for buck based on your current position. Cheaper than head work with better results IMHO.

It's going to depend on which precision turbo you get. The 6262 is going to be REALLY laggy on the RB20. I have the Old SC61 on my 20 and it's about 100rpm slower spooling than the 6262. I talked to a guy that had one on his 20 and he said he hit full boost @ 5100 rpm while I did it @ 5200. The PTE 5555 might be a quicker spooling turbo since it's smaller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...