Jump to content
SAU Community

Presision Turbo On Rb20

fat164e

By fat164e,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

fat164e Contributor

fat164e

Posted
Posted

Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up is Teflon lines a necessary or myth thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419440-presision-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

the Kando lines are fine

all the precision turbos will be pretty laggy on a normal RB20. more fun could be had from a smaller more cost effective option.

what kando have you got on it now? are you getting the most from that, before you go bigger? to my knowledge the RB20 will start to show its constraints closer to the 300kw mark.

fat164e Contributor

fat164e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yer I agree with the turbo it's a tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up .... tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

To be fair your turbo would have to be one of the better matches you could get capable of hitting 300kw (on E85?) on an RB20. The Precision turbos are generally speaking targetting much more power than you are after and will be laggier than the 20G - I am guessing you want similar power to the 20G but with less lag if you can help it?

Check Roys on here 300kw with TD06

His original post said he was inspired by Roy's and went a Kando equivalent originally - can even see it in my quote above

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

As above the Precision items are generally aimed at more power than 300 with high pressure ratios. You will be giving away response instead of gaining.

I would stick with the current turbo and just work on improving the setup in whole. Make sure that all your intake piping and exhaust is done well and no issues. From there I would invest in a flex capable ECU as you will probably pick up some off boost torque and get closer to the 300 mark once you move to ethanol.

I dare say the move to flex will give you exactly what your looking for (assuming your car is set up well as is).

Good luck mate, sounds like a nice car already.

fat164e Contributor

fat164e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yer I read every review on the turbo before buying it cheap and reliable IMO

Even looked at at rb24 but well even at mates rates that shit is expensive

300kw would be great and with Roy's surprised me with the money he spent in good upgrades list power

Seams simple is better so still looking at cams and head porting just to get the best from it but really it comes down to sensible mods not omg its brand Name stuff I must have it!! But I have a problem with oil pumps aswell what cheap upgrades are there can only find nitto ones

Thanks for all your help guys will be a while till it gets sorted as I work away I have a build up page started so will update it

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Good stuff mate it sounds like your on the right track.

Personally I wouldn't port or cam an RB20, they are pretty sweet as they are provided you dont expect way over 300kw. Moving to an adaptronic ecu or a Link G4 will give you the ability to run a GM ethanol content sensor and can get a flex tune done.

That will give you the ability to fill up with 98 for the results you have already, or pop in E85/eflex for the results your chasing. Changing to ethanol should give you the additional spool and power your actually looking for, and be the best bang for buck based on your current position. Cheaper than head work with better results IMHO.

BlueRB240 Collaborator

BlueRB240

Posted
Posted

It's going to depend on which precision turbo you get. The 6262 is going to be REALLY laggy on the RB20. I have the Old SC61 on my 20 and it's about 100rpm slower spooling than the 6262. I talked to a guy that had one on his 20 and he said he hit full boost @ 5100 rpm while I did it @ 5200. The PTE 5555 might be a quicker spooling turbo since it's smaller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...