Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ahh well lucky most of us on the forum seem happy with the HPI rules, no matter how silly it seems to others and with some of the 60ft's I've seen from the rwd imports 1.6-1.7 I really don't think it will hold anyone back unless they want a reason to whinge or an excuse as to why it didn't happen for them, In short if there car is set us right and they have the power they claim they do a radial tyre will do fine :D

yeah what he said :(

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I really don't think it will hold anyone back unless they want a reason to whinge or an excuse as to why it didn't happen for them...

Well if your saying no one has the right to complain either way, I think I agree too.

Let those who choose radials or cross ply street tyres do so without fear of disrespect, both are accepted regardless of HPI on these forums. Case closed :rant:

Well if your saying no one has the right to complain either way, I think I agree too.

Let those who choose radials or cross ply street tyres do so without fear of disrespect, both are accepted regardless of HPI on these forums. Case closed :rant:

hahaha :bs!: I don't accept the times run on cross ply tyres as being in the same category as times run on radial tyres, as street legal cross ply tyres include Mickey Thompson ET Streets which are a cheater slick no matter how you want to sugar coate the words and I think you'll find most will agree with me or if you like we can start a poll then the Case will be closed

et_street.gif

they even come with a warning " WARNING: ET Street tires have passed D.O.T. requirements but have reduced tread depth and compounds designed for racing. Due to the reduced tread depth these tires should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use!"

hahaha :bs!: I don't accept the times run on cross ply tyres as being in the same category as times run on radial tyres, as street legal cross ply tyres include Mickey Thompson ET Streets which are a cheater slick no matter how you want to sugar coate the words and I think you'll find most will agree with me or if you like we can start a poll then the Case will be closed

et_street.gif  

they even come with a warning " WARNING: ET Street tires have passed D.O.T. requirements but have reduced tread depth and compounds designed for racing. Due to the reduced tread depth these tires should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use!"

I'd like to remind you that the argument started with all 'crossplys' in general not just ET's.

Having said that it's still a street tyre I'm afraid, even if it is a rather bald one. I understand why I wouldn't want them on my car but, I also understand why people choose them for the sunny sunday cars they drive to the drags.

Lets face it, the argument is over a tyre that you drag race on and drive home on.

I also think if we are talking about crossply's we should mention hoosier (chain link tread) too. If you discriminate against all non radials you lock out Indy profiles and sportsmans in the Mickey T range all of which you might see on a historic muscle car driving around the road.

I'd like to think imports are fast enough even on radials to be put next to the historic 1/4mile blasters of history like the Barrcuda BO29 and others that had only crossply technology. I think they are so I don't see the point in the winge about it being a cheaters tyre. History makes the winger out to be grossly misinformed.

What are you afraid of?

Thats twice now you've made reference to muscle cars and crossply tyres, I can't for the life of me work out what it has to do with RADIAL TYRES and SKYLINES or imports full stop in a Skyline forum

Last time I checked this is a Skyline forum and the question asked was from a person that drives a R32 not a historic Mustang that may agree with your ideas

And if you really want to face facts the arguement is now that most people don't think a crossply tyre should be in the same category as radial tyres in our SAU drag records or HPI records ... NOTE not historic races or USA muscle cars ... and no matter how you want to argue about it in the long run majority rules

Misinformed ... me ... hahaha I've ran the times on radial tyres in my Skyline have you? Oh thats right you love to quote what it could of done, not what its has done like I can :) maybe it was fear holding you back???

Hope someone can help me out with contact details for suppliers of BF Goodrich drag radials and Nitto drag radials in Sydney?

Ideally I want a drag radial to fit a 15"x10" wheel as close as possible to 26" tall. If I can't get somethign decent there I'll have to use my 18"x10" wheels instead.

Appreciate any help.

mate I'm the person who wished you luck on Saturday, which you arrogantly replied no luck needed or was it luck has nothing to do with it hahaha either way maybe you should of been a touch friendlier :)

Any BF Goodrich Sports tyre store can order them in for you, the Nitto's are pretty scarce now as there isn't a Aus supplier

mate I'm the person who wished you luck on Saturday, which you arrogantly replied no luck needed or was it luck has nothing to do with it hahaha either way maybe you should of been a touch friendlier :)

Any BF Goodrich Sports tyre store can order them in for you, the Nitto's are pretty scarce now as there isn't a Aus supplier

Hehe, no arrogance intended, just my warped sense of humour!

hahaha fair enough, its the BFGoodrich Performance Specialist stores you want to contact http://www.bfgoodrich.com.au/html/dealer.australia

The Nittos most of us NSW guys are using were imported privately and passed on to a few of the bigger work shops in Sydney to sell, as far as I know there are none left and he's not planning on importing any more

BF Goodrich do a 275/75/15 which is exactly what your after and from all reports they are as good if not better then the nitto's anyway

Thats twice now you've made reference to muscle cars and crossply tyres, I can't for the life of me work out what it has to do with RADIAL TYRES and SKYLINES or imports full stop in a Skyline forum

Last time I checked this is a Skyline forum and the question asked was from a person that drives a R32 not a historic Mustang that may agree with your ideas

And if you really want to face facts the arguement is now that most people don't think a crossply tyre should be in the same category as radial tyres in our SAU drag records or HPI records ... NOTE not historic races or USA muscle cars ... and no matter how you want to argue about it in the long run majority rules  

Misinformed ... me ... hahaha I've ran the times on radial tyres in my Skyline have you? Oh thats right you love to quote what it could of done, not what its has done like I can :D maybe it was fear holding you back???

Let me see if I can follow your logic.

In the first parragraph you ask what muscle cars have to do with skylines.

It looks like you are saying that a principle that applies to other cars of different brand or make, or country of origin to a skyline does not apply.

I have used the muscle car example of the 'street crossply' only because it's one that easily recognised. A concept which may be transfered to a skyline for possible increased performance over the 1/4 mile.

In the next parragraph.

you are saying that the crossply and radial are in different categories. In previous posts you suggest that one is a street class tyre the other is not.

I don't see why such a poor philosophy and argument should be adopted by our drag racing members? It's true that majority rules, they just aren't necessarily right.

Finally,

You sugest that not having done something in a skyline it makes you misinformed. If I say that according to the theory of gravity when I drop an apple it will fall, according to your logic I will remain misinformed until I drop an apple. Even if I drop pears and bannanas. Because I have driven faster cars than yours over the 1/4mile to better times (and for your information I have) doesn't mean I know more than you. I don't need that fact to make an argument.

I'm sure I'm misinformed about quite alot of things I am yet to be pointed out on. The crossply considered a street tyre is not one of them.

I'd like to remain open minded about this. So if there is some argument I haven't considered please enlighten me. I am happy to learn new things.

hahaha fair enough, its the  BFGoodrich Performance Specialist stores you want to contact

The Nittos most of us NSW guys are using were imported privately and passed on to a few of the bigger work shops in Sydney to sell, as far as I know there are none left and he's not planning on importing any more

BF Goodrich do a 275/75/15 which is exactly what your after and from all reports they are as good if not better then the nitto's anyway

Thanks for your help dude!

When I look at the BFG sites it is a bit confusing. The Comp TA Drag Radials seem to be giving way to gForce TA Drag Radial.

Anyway after much phoning I have some 275/50 R15 at 25.9" tall Comp TA drag radials on the way over the Tasman due to arrive Monday 21/6 in Melbourne. From there to Sydney by Tuesday 22/6 ready for the next WSID street meet, God willing and the creeks don't rise.

If you want to run radials and know that you wont run a Qtr as fast, then that’s up to you. Don’t complain about it and make excuses about “I run radials etc.” At the end of the day, it’s the ET that counts. How you get it is up to you.

Yeah, I am aware that you usually drop the trap speed to gain ETs when changing from street tyres to DRs or slicks.

I am perfectly willing to trade down from 132 mph to get into the 11s. I'm also wondering if the traps will drop given that I'm wheelspinning in all five gears on the street tyres.

I'm probably more likely to hit the rev limiter in top gear (136.8 mph with 275/50 R15 DRs), unless the DRs grow a tad like slicks?

The Comp TA Drag Radials seem to be giving way to gForce TA Drag Radial.

The Comp TA's are what you're after, dude. Check out some pics of Nabil's 8THSIN Supra launching on the size you're talking about and you'll be immediately convinced. The gForce radials from BFG are designed with the American FWD market in mind. This is demonstrated by the sizes in which they are available. That's not to say that they don't ALSO suit a RWD arrangement (see Ben from UAS's MR2 for more).

Good luck at the next street meet. Hope to see you there. And remember... Luck is ALWAYS part of the equation :D

Adrian

The Comp TA's are what you're after, dude.  Check out some pics of Nabil's 8THSIN Supra launching on the size you're talking about and you'll  be immediately convinced.  The gForce radials from BFG are designed with the American FWD market in mind.  This is demonstrated by the sizes in which they are available.  That's not to say that they don't ALSO suit a RWD arrangement (see Ben from UAS's MR2 for more).

Good luck at the next street meet.  Hope to see you there.  And remember... Luck is ALWAYS part of the equation

Adrian

Hee hee, you're right about luck Adrian!

I've got Comp TAs on the way so hopefully they'll be on the car next Wednesday. I've never launched with DRs so I've got a bit of learning to do there. With my street tyres anything over 2,200RPM on launch was a smokefest. I'd love to be able to launch higher ...

What sort of pressure should I try for starters on DRs with a 2900 lb car? And what sort of burnout if any makes sense for DRs?

2900lb is lighter than my R33 and I run 13-14psi in the Nitto's. I'd try 18psi in them to start with and *maybe* drop it to as far as 12 from there. Obviously you'd do that in increments to guage the best pressure.

As far as burnouts go, I have never been one for massive smoke-shows. In fact, I have read on American Supra & Mustang forums that the BF's require only a small burnout to get them to an acceptable operating temperature. Take the marketing with a grain of salt as when they say, "Little or no burnout req'd" they are REALLY trying to say, "These things wear out fuggin' quick and if you don't shred them, they'll last longer."

Also, you should find that you don't have to do as big a burnout as the first one during the course of a day. They do actually retain some heat.

In terms of launching, I have absoluteley no idea what will work well with your car. Radial tyres, (soft compound or not) don't behave in the same balooning type of way as drag slicks due to their radial construction. The radial belts hold the shape for road driving as well as race driving.

They do however squat like a bastard!!

Good luck mate!!

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...