Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys was thinking of trying the KLS gtr low mount manifolds on eBay instead of shelling out for Tommi which I know would be better but just out of curiosity has any used these and know if they are any good ie : increases flow quicker spool or just leaky peices of shit , any info on them would be appricated cheers mick

Had a set came in te boot when I bought my Gtr. When I did my turbo upgrade I was going to use them, but they dust fit properly so I went with HKS. I know that since ten they have changed the design a little. As for performance I can't give you any heads up.

Oh man i love this forum, you ask a question about something and someone tells you that you should just do something completely differnet. Least there were a responses to the actual question :yucky:

Oh man i love this forum, you ask a question about something and someone tells you that you should just do something completely differnet. Least there were a responses to the actual question :yucky:

And that is the whole point of a forum - arm people with info they might not have realised so they don't waste money or put things on that might be sub-standard.

There is no difference between a set of ported stockers and Tomei. Don't waste your money, spend it elsewhere.

^ this.

Tomei crack, 4-5 people have had this issue in the past 18 months... Everyone else seems to use use stock ones in most cases so go with that.

Just ensure if you do port them, you don't remove too much material or the stock ones will also crack

Ok cheers fellers for info , ill look into porting std manifolds , what sort of cash does a port job sting on average , and anyone recommend a good shop to get the porting done ? Cheers

You are really only cleaning up the exhaust path, anyone with a die grinder can do it, but it's time consuming and messy. The other (more expensive) option is Power porting, or pumping an abrasive through them.

http://www.autospeed...orting&A=111154

Give me a yell if you can't find anyone local to die grind them, (I'm south east Melb) but any good fabricator or performance workshop will probably do it for you.

While working on the Gibson GTR I realised they used cast factory manifolds, with large hangers to hold the turbo's up when the metal went soft from heat. Smart move I thought and better than the little brace underneath that usually holds the turbo's up.

post-63525-0-06809200-1360502144_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...