Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got my engine rebuilt forged internals etc standard head just with 256 cams

Cranked the engine to build oil pressure, cranked it for like 5secs got 80psi pressure, started the car up and straight away lifters started tapping off its head,

Before anyone says take it to engine builder, I will on Monday when he open but been weekend Ill like to try work out what's wrong with it,

Nitto oil pump, still running VCt, blocked middle, 1.5m rear restritors,

Only thing I'm thinking is engine builder didnt do cleanances right? But I highly doubt it,

Bad lifters? How can I tell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419630-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Hydraulic lifters sorry,

Thought that as well, we had it at normal temps, (half way) took it just for short drive under 3000rpms and still ticking,

It seems to rev slow like it revs and the come down revs is slightly sorry

I was so nervous to start it as I have had so many issues in regards to work that was done on it, I didn't wanna start it... But just from

How loud they are and all the time doing it, I didn't wanna risk driving it and causing more damage, but yes they have been out of the motor for about 7months dry,

If its a fresh build you shouldn't be idling it or taking it on a light/brief drive.

You should be seating the rings or you'll stuff the build entirely. Tow it to the builder/dyno Monday and don't keep starting it now. All you should do on a fresh build is let it run for a couple mins just so you find any potential water/oil/air leaks etc.

yeah fair things i wanna check like cam cover just to make sure its not hitting it was late yesterday arvo 5pm and once i heard the noise i didnt want anything to do with it for the day was a let down she packed up closed the shop lol

Was the previous engine blow up a spun bearing by any chance??

It's so common this happens when a small bearing particle blocks the head oil feed from the previous blow up and you end up with stuff all oil to the head.

It's bloody hard to have the galleries cleaned out perfectly unless the original restrictors are removed.

A lot of engines I've seen built by various Motorsport teams like the supercars have external feeds to the cylinder head with inline filters to prevent this happening.

Hole bottom end was destroyed in the old motor, started again with block and crank, only think that didnt change was the head, but engine builder knew what happen with old motor and I told him to wash the head and he said he would do that,

Only thing that was used from the spun bearing motor was the head, lifters and cams? Could these of been f**ked from the old motor? I asked the engine builder to check everything to make sure it was all good to go back in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...