Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know of any triple gauge holders you can get for the R34 N/A to sit in the center dash where the little imprinted storage space is?

Ive looked at the GTT ones of ebay but it looks like you have to drill into the dash to hold em in.

The dash isnt like falcons and commodores where you can unclip the center bit and then the gauge holder will clip in.

If there are any where can i get em from, or will i need to get one custom made?

You can't get OEM tripple gauges for NA, though you can buy the OEM cover and retro fit aftermarket guages on. I have both the dash and tripple gauge cluster for sale if you're interested. PM me.

Turbo 34s have that "imprint" square area cut out and thats where the OEM gauges sit.

Does anyone know of any triple gauge holders you can get for the R34 N/A to sit in the center dash where the little imprinted storage space is?

Ive looked at the GTT ones of ebay but it looks like you have to drill into the dash to hold em in.

The dash isnt like falcons and commodores where you can unclip the center bit and then the gauge holder will clip in.

If there are any where can i get em from, or will i need to get one custom made?

Can do it but you will still need holes for wires etc cut in the dash top

Did this to a couple of n/a cars, you need to be neat and fairly precise with an angle grinder and diamond blade. Under all that crap are the rear clips where the factory triple gauge hooks in, and the screw holes for the front part sit under the airvents. You can't tell it's been done when fitted correctly. (ignore the random look of the interior, my car had just been recovered from a chop-shop)

post-1182-0-60402900-1360641412_thumb.jpg

Did this to a couple of n/a cars, you need to be neat and fairly precise with an angle grinder and diamond blade. Under all that crap are the rear clips where the factory triple gauge hooks in, and the screw holes for the front part sit under the airvents. You can't tell it's been done when fitted correctly. (ignore the random look of the interior, my car had just been recovered from a chop-shop)

post-1182-0-60402900-1360641412_thumb.jpg

So did you do this completely DIY? Because the only thing im concerned about is ruining the dash, there surely has to be a triple cluster out there that just sits on top or something?

So did you do this completely DIY? Because the only thing im concerned about is ruining the dash, there surely has to be a triple cluster out there that just sits on top or something?

Yeah it was easy, you just need a steady hand and measure a million times so you don't leave yourself with any gaps. Generally cut the hole 1.5cm undersized and use your finger to slowly and evenly remove the foam from under the plastic, the plastic just folds neatly and the triple gauge cluster hides the evidence.

Yeah it was easy, you just need a steady hand and measure a million times so you don't leave yourself with any gaps. Generally cut the hole 1.5cm undersized and use your finger to slowly and evenly remove the foam from under the plastic, the plastic just folds neatly and the triple gauge cluster hides the evidence.

Did you find that the aircon vent gets in the way though? Because when i had my head unit out it looks as if the vent is almost touching the top of the dash, just looks like its in the way

Take the vents out, behind the vent you'll see the screw holes that line up with the ones on the triple gauge, that's where it joins up. The n/a dash is a GTt dash without the hole cut, everything is basically exactly where it would be on the turbo car, just hidden under a plastic cover that needs to be cut out.

here's a thread I contributed to a while back, has all the info you need :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/282281-r34-gtt-triple-gauge-into-na/

Edited by 666DAN

Take the vents out, behind the vent you'll see the screw holes that line up with the ones on the triple gauge, that's where it joins up. The n/a dash is a GTt dash without the hole cut, everything is basically exactly where it would be on the turbo car, just hidden under a plastic cover that needs to be cut out.

here's a thread I contributed to a while back, has all the info you need :)

http://www.skylinesa...-gauge-into-na/

Ahhhh was about to say i could get a picture but Dan nailed it!

I saw mention of Blue Tack holding in the gauges, surely that cant last? :P

The main thing is to give yourself a nice bit of room so you don't remove too much dash plastic and have gaps at the edges. Use a nice sharp stanley knife and a ruler to mark out the area, then just peel the foam and plastic off the dash (the hard plastic just under) it's messy as and you'll have yellow foam all over the place, have a vacuum on hand. Once you've exposed the hard plastic, the angle grinder and cutting blade sorts it in seconds (WATCH THAT WINDSCREEN)

LOL maybe it's the structural type? That's just cringeworthy, even a glue gun would have sounded less shoddy (just)

Industrial strength? :P

Going to try tackle my gauges sunday arvo after the SAU cruise.... Will keep an eye on this thread to see how OP goes!

The main thing is to give yourself a nice bit of room so you don't remove too much dash plastic and have gaps at the edges. Use a nice sharp stanley knife and a ruler to mark out the area, then just peel the foam and plastic off the dash (the hard plastic just under) it's messy as and you'll have yellow foam all over the place, have a vacuum on hand. Once you've exposed the hard plastic, the angle grinder and cutting blade sorts it in seconds (WATCH THAT WINDSCREEN)

I wouldn't use a grinder cut off wheel

A multi function tool or air saw

The grinder makes a mess and is dangerous as hell , grab the dash and flig thru the window or cut you or the car to bits , and throws crap everywhere !

the other two can cut the dash like butter a s cleaner cuts , if you drop it or catches they stop dead

the fumes from burning / melting abs plastic can be dangerous or even fatal too so do it with fresh air / mask

take a look at a gtt dash hole first its pretty simple cut the line is more or less molded in the dash to guide you ?

I wouldn't use a grinder cut off wheel

A multi function tool or air saw

The grinder makes a mess and is dangerous as hell , grab the dash and flig thru the window or cut you or the car to bits , and throws crap everywhere !

the other two can cut the dash like butter a s cleaner cuts , if you drop it or catches they stop dead

the fumes from burning / melting abs plastic can be dangerous or even fatal too so do it with fresh air / mask

take a look at a gtt dash hole first its pretty simple cut the line is more or less molded in the dash to guide you ?

Don't scare monger, a diamond blade slid through it (as do the wafer thin cut-oof wheels), and becasue of the materials involved it couldn't catch if your life depended on it and there were no fumes at all. As for mess, the foam removal is a 1000 times worse as it's aged and friable.

Basically if you're out of your depth safely controlling an angle grinder (lack forearm strength and delicate control) don't attempt using one and use an alternate method.

If you're really bad with electric tools, spread peanut butter over the area and put 12 rats in the car.

Don't scare monger, a diamond blade slid through it (as do the wafer thin cut-oof wheels), and becasue of the materials involved it couldn't catch if your life depended on it and there were no fumes at all. As for mess, the foam removal is a 1000 times worse as it's aged and friable.

Basically if you're out of your depth safely controlling an angle grinder (lack forearm strength and delicate control) don't attempt using one and use an alternate method.

If you're really bad with electric tools, spread peanut butter over the area and put 12 rats in the car.

:laugh: nice one

:laugh: nice one

Scare monger!! Have you seen what a grinder will do , not to mention in the hands of someone who doesnt use one often. Or ever!!

Better safe then sorry i enjoy having limbs and a car window

Forums assume the person had skills and we all know that is a coin flip

Best tools for the job is airsaw or multifunction tool IF you have access to one

End of story

Why bother suggesting shit to these forums users if thats the BS you put up , would have expected more dan !! ffs

Next thing ya know the person got seriously hurt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...