Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just hit 100,000 kms on the GT8, so need to change the gearbox oil asap. I'm going to buy the oil here:

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/onlinestore/item/10000682/

But does anyone know a reliable mechanic that can change the oil for me? Preferably someone who's changed the gearbox oil in a GT8 Extroid gearbox before.

Cheers

Is changing the fluid in a CVT box any different to changing the fluid in a standard auto??

Let us know if the source for the fluid is good.. I was thinking of changing the CVT fluid in our J31 Maxima, it uses NS-2 fluid and that seller has 20L for under $170.. which is about the same price as standard ATF here..

I'm not sure if its different, but normal gearboxes uses oil to lubricate, the extroid box oil is used to create friction between the moving parts. So preferably just want someone that has done it before. Anything messes up and I'm screwed.

I'll let you know if the seller is good. I'm guessing you didn't factor in shipping yet... 20L is about 20Kg..

Please personal message me, I have a document which I can email you from CVT NZ which shows the correct way to change the fluid. It will take 7 - 8 litres of fluid. I had mine done, but the change was done as per other instructions and apparently this is incorrect when I have discussed with the NZ guys. So looks like I am going to have to do mine again.

Hi Guys,

I just hit 100,000 kms on the GT8, so need to change the gearbox oil asap. I'm going to buy the oil here:

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/onlinestore/item/10000682/

But does anyone know a reliable mechanic that can change the oil for me? Preferably someone who's changed the gearbox oil in a GT8 Extroid gearbox before.

Cheers

Just letting you all know that the website I got the oil from is legit. 8 Litres (2 cans) cost me $570 delivered. Took 10 days to arrive and one can was dented in a bit but no leakages or anything. Here's a pic:

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4768B4ECB5472FCC!454&authkey=!AGF79MnVLosAJr0

excellent.. and it is definantly is CVT fluid?? not just someone's urine? :)

I might buy a 20L drum of NS-2 fluid for the Maxima/Murano CVT, half of that will be more than enough for a full flush, and I would sell the other half to recoupe some of the cost. - or maybe split the price with someone on here if they have a suitable transmission that is due a flush..

Just letting you all know that the website I got the oil from is legit. 8 Litres (2 cans) cost me $570 delivered. Took 10 days to arrive and one can was dented in a bit but no leakages or anything. Here's a pic:

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4768B4ECB5472FCC!454&authkey=!AGF79MnVLosAJr0

Did someone crack the shits at the crate and kick it? Lol! Site looks good, shall look at them for my flush in 2 months time.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just letting you know, if you take the instructions that I messaged to you and the car to MV Automatics in Blackwood they are able to change the fluid for you.

They were really great with our car and the service was second to none. Will be taking the car back there for any future tranny services.

Just letting you all know that the website I got the oil from is legit. 8 Litres (2 cans) cost me $570 delivered. Took 10 days to arrive and one can was dented in a bit but no leakages or anything. Here's a pic:

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4768B4ECB5472FCC!454&authkey=!AGF79MnVLosAJr0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...