Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$24,999ono

I inspected 7 s2000’s over 6months before I found this. The car is not one of those previously heavily modified & tracked cars that has now been restored for selling purposes, never been tracked, never been modified, first 10 years it belonged to a 50 year old owner, then owned by another fellow enthusiast & the condition of the car will tell you the same story.

The car is not on revs, never been stolen, no flood damage, no accident history, I have paid for & printed the PPSR certificate to show interested buyers.

Has all original logbooks, Honda booklets, service history and receipts since it was purchased.

I’ve had it for 6 months & reason for sale is I’ve started a new job & they provide car allowance but I need more seats

Mechanically A+, still has factory Honda clutch. Gearbox & clutch fluids flushed & replaced with OEM Honda fluids less than 1000km’s ago, when I got it serviced they said it has around 35/40% left on the clutch. Major service done at 70,000km’s.

It is daily driven but does only 150km’s a week, gets 400km’s per refill, the tank capacity is 44 litres & I always fill up as soon as it hits 2 bars remaining, which is generally around 38-41ltres.

No modifications at all, roof replaced in 10/2010 ($2450), radiator upgraded to a koyorad in 03/2011 ($600). Car has GENUINE work wheels on it ($3000) fitted around 3000km’s ago (stock wheels in perfect condition also included).

I am negotiable for cash offers since I am looking for a quick sale, but note that this is currently the cheapest ‘00 S2000 in NSW with less than 80,000km's on it so please no ridiculous offers.

Please no trades, swaps or Nigerian Sailors looking for me to ship the car to another country whilst they are deployed at sea.

Contact Adam via pm for any further information, car available for viewing 7 days a week.

post-64500-0-00842700-1360563791_thumb.jpg

post-64500-0-22734700-1360563816_thumb.jpg

post-64500-0-63452100-1360563985_thumb.jpg

post-64500-0-03258500-1360563992_thumb.jpg

post-64500-0-17105400-1360563997_thumb.jpg

Edited by ShaolinCurse

hey guys whilst I am nego on the price, please be reasonable in your offers, have a look around on carsales at s2000's before offering 17/18k for mine.. they don't really compare and it is really a "you get what you pay for" market with s2000's so be careful, if your budget is truley that price then I'd suggest simply saving up because buying one for that price won't last you very long.....

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...