Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

been having a problem every now and then with my Profec A boost controller

Every now and then the overtake boost button fails to work - this is essential as its needed for re-programming. It also drops back to stock boost every now and then, then returns to the set boost. Its very wierd,

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and if mine if rooted and requires replacement?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41981-greddy-profec-a-problems/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

just wondering if u ever found the solution to ur profec A problems. i am having one atm where it will return the car to stock boost settings (as if its spiking and overboosting) but it isnt overboosting.. its anouying, it happens alot on downshifts when boost comes on hard... i was thinking cleaning the stepper motor or something?

Kinda, as I found another Profec A control unit on ebay

I'd make sure your power and earth wires are located to a good power source and try re-proggraming it again and see what happens

I would doubt it would be the stepper motor, they usually just stop working all together

Chris

the unit itself is very stable. the power is always maintained and the overboost alarm never comes on.... when it swtuffs up it will readch 10psi then instantly drop to 7psi. happens alot when i dont boost right througha gear, say start at 3000rpm+ and nail it... i was thinking something like a ratio control, but it doesnt have one...

do u think this could happen if it wasnt able to bleed off air fast enough..l atm my bleeder nipple isw position just away from the rengine bay wall. i will try and move it for better airflow just incase..

i'll try a reprogram and include the downshifts in the learning procedure...

other then this th controller has been good.. brings on boost faster and sits neatly in my ash tray :D

I had this problem when i was running mine of a less than optimum power source

I also re-programmed mine after I re-wired it, and it seemed to work. I found in the P1 learing mode, drive it around for a good 20-30 minutes boosting it as much as possible so it learns all the ways boost comes on. It will be much more stable from doing this, then press the OTB button so it goes into P2 and give it one more run in 3rd full boost to max revs and it should work fine - hopefully

Do you run a small inline filter going to the solenoid?

na i didnt get a one with it. ive heard they are more trouble then they are worth.

I'll try the rewire thing, atm its comming off my ciggy lighter 12v... it used to only happen randomly/rearly, but the other night it wasnt holding hardly any runs, so its prompted me to fix the situtation..

  • 2 weeks later...

also, if u do the P1 learning the idea is that

You to a few runs runing the car to redline in 3rd gear then for the p2 u do the same by up to the redline in 4th gear.

Mine works perfectly im running it off the fuse box its connect to the same wirer than runs my sound system + i add a fuse just incase it got to much power

also, if u do the P1 learning the idea is that

You to a few runs runing the car to redline in 3rd gear then for the p2 u do the same by up to the redline in 4th gear.

Mine works perfectly im running it off the fuse box its connect to the same wirer than runs my sound system + i add a fuse just incase it got to much power

i thought that the . means .05 of a bar? so 0.9. = 0.95

anyways been using the B more, and its great. Holds boost perfectly, the same everytime, and i have gained more power for some reason. must be the balance as ive set it to hard and it builds like a mother. Only thing i have to sort out is the different boost/2nd and 3rds. i get 1psi exactly more.

So yeah. Bspec is cool. same results as a perfectly tuned A out of the box!

also the solenoid doesnt make these funky noises like the a-spec does!

only bad side so far of the B is that it doesnt have a boost readout. so when ur setting boost u dont know how much until u try it out and check the boost gauge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
    • Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
    • @Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto
×
×
  • Create New...