Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright so last Friday i had my brand new CD009 transmission (06-07), SS clutch lines, new pivot ball, new throw out bearing, new rear main seal, Southbend clutch & flywheel installed. Along with this i put brand new Amsoil 75w90 gl4 gearbox oil, and Penrite SIN 600 brake/clutch fluid.

Now for the issue-

When i drove the car home from my mate/shop owner i noticed that when the clutch is engaged whilst driving and changing gears, there is a sort of rubbing or gurgle noise. It is very hard to explain but if you can sort of imagine the clutch spinning and then having something solid behind it rubbing against it. Now when the clutch is engaged but the car is still, there is no noticeable noises that are the same as the one i hear while driving. Also when i downshift and rev match, the noise gets louder since i am reving the motor while the clutch is engaged then releasing when i reach the same RPM.

Before anyone says flywheel chatter it's not that, the new flywheel is only a little bit lighter than the factory dual mass flywheel and makes the same normal chatter i always here when accelerating from a stop.

I have been searching the internet like crazy and asking mates that have a lot of experience with cars and no one seems to be able to give me a definite answer without obviously driving the car.

Some people are saying that it's normal for a copper mix clutch and that there is a "bed in period" of around 500-1000km, others are saying to flog the car do skids and see what happens lol.

I got in touch with Coz from ConceptZperformance in the US who supplied me the parts. I explained the problem to him and he basically said that he's never heard of this happening before with the Southbend setup and he seems to think it's got something to do with the installation of the parts. But the bloke that did it has a great deal of knowledge and says he didn't come across any hurdles when installing everything and he can't understand the problem. He's just said to drive it for around 500-1000km or until the noise stops, then take it back to him and he'll check it out.

I know this is a huge thread but it's annoying me a little bit, i have driven probably 300km since then and have not noticed the noise getting quieter at all. If anyone has any actual knowledge on copper mix clutches or have a clue what the problem could be, please share your knowledge and help me out.

Thanks!

Anyone have some sort of input? I'm getting it looked at again this Sunday, texted the bloke that did it saying i don't think it's going to improve and he's happy to check it out for me. Also last night driving home i got a strange shudder through the gearknob but only while coming to a stop going from 3rd to 2nd gear then it stopped. Was weird.. didn't happen this morning though coming to work.

I used a brand that was recommended in the DIY servicing section on here-

Clutch fluid:

Brand: Penrite SIN 600, Motul RBF 600

But as i said, the clutch engages and dissengages with no noticeable noises and have no problems changing gears. I was just speaking with another mate, he thinks it could be something to do with greasy hands while bolting in the flywheel and clutch, and possibly the rust-proof seal on the face of the clutch and flywheel have not been removed?

Far as I can see your options are

1) keep driving on it, clock up the 1000km's using the bedding in technique - see if it stops.

2) if that doesn't work, drain fluid, replace with recommended CVT fluid - see if it stops

3) if that doesn't work - drain fluid again, keep it in a container. Drop box and investigate - see if it stops.

4) if that doesn't work - clutch dump time*. Got a video of me doing a 1st to 2nd* gear burnout if you want guidance.

*SMOKEYV35 does not recommend or condone these activities in real life.

Thanks Mat,

Well i have the car going in on Sunday again, everything has been installed correctly i have been quizzing my mate that did it to try and rule anything out that may be incorrect but it all seems to add up.

Haha i'm not too confident that will fix anything, i don't think that's a good idea :P

But if we have no luck at all this Sunday, i guess the first thing would be to do is change the clutch fluid

So there is perhaps something different between the boxes? You sorted out the pivot bolt already, right? Could it still be the wrong length?

Have you compared the size of the input shafts? Was the pilot bushing lubricated/replaced? Perhaps the throwout bearing is faulty? All these are things than need to be checked while it's on the hoist. What makes noise is slowly wearing so you should keep an eye out for metal flakes etc. It should be fairly obvious I imagine.

So there is perhaps something different between the boxes? You sorted out the pivot bolt already, right? Could it still be the wrong length?

Have you compared the size of the input shafts? Was the pilot bushing lubricated/replaced? Perhaps the throwout bearing is faulty? All these are things than need to be checked while it's on the hoist. What makes noise is slowly wearing so you should keep an eye out for metal flakes etc. It should be fairly obvious I imagine.

Well, my 03 comes with a small pivot ball. But the 04-07 came with a longer pivot ball. The box was originally installed with the new pivot ball, which is too long, everything was then bolted back up but the clutch couldn't be adjusted because of that so the old pivot ball was put back in. It was not faulty at all, i made sure my mate checked. Brand new throw out bearing so i'm not sure how that would be possible. I will see if there's any difference between input shafts too but i was under the impression by many individual and Coz himself that this CD009 gearbox is a direct replacement of the CD001 the only difference is pivot ball. Everything else should just bolt straight up and have no issues. Car is going back on the hoist this Sunday so we'll see i guess.

Scotty-

i asked the questions that you asked me, to the bloke that fitted it. This exactly what he replied with-

"yeah pilot bush was replaced, and lubed by oil under pressure, til it leaks out of the bush. Didn't check shafts, but it won't be different, that's a common size on all nissans, my SR20 clutch tool fits perfect into your clutch"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue.
    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...