Shopping List For ~500Hp Rb26

[Behind Horizon]

Hello guys,

I am just shopping for my project and I would need advise and would be very thankful if you could help me.

I intend on safely maxing out my R33 RB26 with stock internals. The engine has not been rebuilt but is in a good shape.

I read that ~300awkw or ~500hp at the flywheel at 19-20 psi is achievable and are safe numbers for stock internals.

If so I would like to stick to that power level.

I already bought:

Gt2860-5 turbos

Apexi Metal Head Gasket 1.1mm

ARP head studs

Apexi Power FC d-jetro

Mushroom air filters

Splitfire coils

Oil cooler

Boost controller

100 cell metal catalyst

3" Catback

BOV

Koyo water cooler + SPAL fans

New N1 Water Pump

Set of Defi gauges

Do I need new turbo elbows and a downpipe or can I use the stock units? Do you recommend using a different exhaust manifold? If so which one do you recommend? Tomei Expreme or will the OBX ones work too? Or should I just stick with the oem one?

Can I use the stock injectors? If not can I get away with using a higher fuel pressure? Or do I need larger injectors and if so which size do you recommend?

Can I keep my stock fuel pump? If not can I use a supra fuel pump or do I already need a more expensive 044 Bosch pump?

Do you recommend using Camgears and/or Poncams for my power goal?

Do I need a larger intercooler or will my stock unit work?

Furthermore which clutch do you recommend? Can I get away using a strong aftermarket single plate one or will I need a twin plate one? Which clutch models can you recommend?

Sorry for all the questions but I really appreciate your help .

Thanks!

Edited February 12, 2013 by Behind Horizon

[r32-25t]

Making 300kw at the wheels on a Gtr with the best response is easy

-9 turbos

Injectors

Fuel pump

Cam gears

Full exhaust

Ecu

A boost controller

Clutch (nismo twin plate is a great choice)

People will tell you that you need more but that's everything that is actually required, oh and n1 water pumps on street driven cars don't mix very well

[wedge_r34gtr]

Hello guys,

I am just shopping for my project and I would need advise and would be very thankful if you could help me.

I intend on safely maxing out my R33 RB26 with stock internals. The engine has not been rebuilt but is in a good shape.

I read that ~300awkw or ~500hp at the flywheel at 19-20 psi is achievable and are safe numbers for stock internals.

If so I would like to stick to that power level.

I already bought:

Gt2860-5 turbos TOO BIG FOR POWER GOAL. USE -7 OR -9

Apexi Metal Head Gasket 1.1mm WHY IF ENGINE IS OK?

ARP head studs WHY IF ENGINE IS OK?

Apexi Power FC d-jetro OK

Mushroom air filters USE STOCK AIRBOX

Splitfire coils OK

Oil cooler OK

Boost controller OK

100 cell metal catalyst OK

3" Catback DON'T FORGET FRONT PIPE

BOV USE STOCK

Koyo water cooler + SPAL fans OK

New N1 Water Pump ONLY IF DOING TRACK WORK, USE STOCK OTHERWISE

Set of Defi gauges WHY?

Do I need new turbo elbows and a downpipe or can I use the stock units? Do you recommend using a different exhaust manifold? If so which one do you recommend? Tomei Expreme or will the OBX ones work too? Or should I just stick with the oem one? USE OEM

Can I use the stock injectors? If not can I get away with using a higher fuel pressure? Or do I need larger injectors and if so which size do you recommend? ID1000'S

Can I keep my stock fuel pump? If not can I use a supra fuel pump or do I already need a more expensive 044 Bosch pump? UNSURE, BUT NISMO IS DIRECT REPLACEMENT

Do you recommend using Camgears and/or Poncams for my power goal? CAM GEARS-YES, CAMS-NO

Do I need a larger intercooler or will my stock unit work? STOCK

Furthermore which clutch do you recommend? Can I get away using a strong aftermarket single plate one or will I need a twin plate one? Which clutch models can you recommend? PLENTY OF INFO ON CLUTCHES ON SAU

Sorry for all the questions but I really appreciate your help .

Thanks!

SEE RED ABOVE

Edited February 12, 2013 by wedge_r34gtr

[Piggaz]

Search for the "definitive guide to 300 rwkw on am rb26" or words to that effect. But the above post sums it up pretty well.

[No Crust Racing]

I started that topic back when I had my 33 V-Spec

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/page__hl__definitive%20guide

It's still relevant today and contains all the info you should need.

I'll be going back through it all when I buy another GT-R.

Edited February 12, 2013 by ActionDan

[R31Nismoid]

Search for the "definitive guide to 300 rwkw on am rb26" or words to that effect. But the above post sums it up pretty well.

Ye the post summed it up perfectly.

Unfortunately OP has purchased the wrong parts for his goals in a few areas

[No Crust Racing]

Easy enough to sell/swap.

[SiR_RB]

Keep the -5's for the future and or when u do a rebuild...the power but will bite and 300 won't be enough lol

[R31Nismoid]

Maybe, maybe not - If i had my time again I'd stick with the -9s for a streeter and not have put -5s on

[MrStabby]

Re: N1 water pump - i didnt notice any difference when i swapped the N1 back to stock, but yeah they're designed to work better at higher revs, so wont be as effective at lower revs.. Also, many people do cam belt+tensioner+idler+water pump all that the same time, and i suggest you do that if you're due for a belt change, otherwise forget it.

Agree what everyone else has said, especially that you should swap the -5s for -7/-9s for your goal.

[Ants]

Maybe, maybe not - If i had my time again I'd stick with the -9s for a streeter and not have put -5s on

Really????

I know that -9s are more responsive than -5s but did not think they were that laggier. Could you not tune the car to be more responsive down low with -5s and sacrifice a bit of the top end?

I think that the power bug is easy to catch and would just bolt those -5s and hang on

[R31Nismoid]

Dead set on that statement Mark!

For hill runs and motorkhana/hill climb stuff i did - plus daily driving - 100%. The on/off throttle response is huge between the two. Top end counts for nothing when you've gotta change gears far more often to keep it on the boil (dropping back to 2nd as opposed to simply staying in 3rd)

Not to take anything away from -5s - above 140km/h they are great! But honestly - how often are you there?

[Ants]

TBH, I can't even remember last time I was even driving over 120kph! So to answer that question.... hardly ever.

But, I do intend in breaching that 140kph soon enough (legally I might add)

Guess it makes sense that -9s is the median street setup.

Edited February 13, 2013 by Ants

[Piggaz]

Dead set on that statement Mark!

For hill runs and motorkhana/hill climb stuff i did - plus daily driving - 100%. The on/off throttle response is huge between the two. Top end counts for nothing when you've gotta change gears far more often to keep it on the boil (dropping back to 2nd as opposed to simply staying in 3rd)

Not to take anything away from -5s - above 140km/h they are great! But honestly - how often are you there?

Or on a stroker.

[Behind Horizon]

Thanks for all your helpful responses and I read the linked thread.

There are still some unanswered questions.

I bought the -5's already but think it isn't bad to install them if I want to up the power in the future?

I am sure that I get bored sooner or later with 500hp and will throw some forged pistons and rods in.

I also already installed the N1 water pump, no issues yet but I am living in North Europe, so maybe not that problematic like in down under.

Do I need turbo ellbows? If so which ones do you recommend? Read that many are using the stok R34 ones? Are there any cheap chinese ellbows which don't have the split two pipe design?

Can I get away using a supra fuel pump? These are 150,00, 044 is more expensive and Nismo's are way to expensive.

Or could I fit a second R33 GT-R pump and have a twin intank setup?

Edited February 13, 2013 by Behind Horizon

[Ants]

Look. You already have the -5s so keep them. No point buying other turbos (-9 or -7s) if you know you are wanting to get more power from them at a later date.

Turbo elbows (we call them dump pipes over here) are worth getting and will make difference. I like the split dump pipe versions but that is my preference only. R34 dump pipes are good, but there are many options available. I would be wary of cheap Chinese versions but have a look on eBay and I'm sure will find a myriad of cheap dump pipes.

Can't answer your question about using supra fuel pump. I run a sard 280l/h in tank fuel pump. Cost approximately $300 Au but directly fits into my old fuel pump bracket.

Also, concentrate on replacing injectors instead of fuel pump to begin with.

I'm sure you can run a twin fuel pump setup but again will cost for installing and running extra lines and is not necessary for your current power goal.

Edited February 13, 2013 by Ants