Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The spigot bush goes into the end of the crank. Old one out new one in.

Bolt flywheel on. Flywheel bolts are 110-120 ft/lbs

I have an old input shaft I can lend you to line up te clutch plate as you bolt on the pressure plate. This saves a world of pain. Pressure plate bolts are about 30ft/lbs

Don't forget to put the dust plate on behind the flywheel.

Box in job done.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

here are some pictures of the manifold ive cut to try and get it back straight and it seemed to work but is still sitting down slight in the middle but i am betting when i got to bolt it up it will come right fingers crossed anyway...

post-93126-0-66060900-1365324922_thumb.jpg

post-93126-0-91114800-1365325137_thumb.jpg

post-93126-0-92335200-1365325228_thumb.jpg

done my hand break tonight was a lot easier then what i thought it was gonna be i used a r32 handbreak and the front part of the r32 cable with the tailshaft out and Center console out and the carpet is already pre cut from factory and you just pull it back and cut it away and youll see a oval hole in the top of the tunnel from underneth there is a plate covering the hole i drilled out 2 spot welds and pulled the plate off and there was your bolt holes and big hole for your cable to poke down through the hole and i used 2 10mm bolts and nuts to hold the cable bracket done the r32 hand break cable has a bracket on the end of the first part of the cable you have to drill that off and it will fit right up in to the the laurel handbreak cable then all you have to do is drill the holes for the handbreak its self and work out where you want it its very easy

post-93126-0-82505800-1365410005_thumb.jpg

post-93126-0-36090600-1365410696_thumb.jpg

post-93126-0-11394000-1365410036_thumb.jpg

awesome day today heap done getting the spigot bush out was so easy used grease and come out it few hits clutch and flywheel on manual gearbox on turbo housing had 90 bend welded and is all ready to do back on tailshaft has to be made to suit hope that dont cost to much im on the home stretch now had the best help from zach french sam allan and the master of all damo roach not to long till i can drive it now :)

so over this weekend ive done some of my final things in my conversion ive refit everything on the turbo side and have bleed the clutch and feels



post-93126-0-58491700-1366514279_thumb.j



and today a friend come over just to have a look at the computer and everything on it as i wanted to see if it actually had a ems ecu like the guy i brought it off said as i looked at the ecu and seemed to look just like a factory one (G8) as my friend said it may be a patch inside the loom its self but we could not work out how it was going so good with just a stock computer and putting out so much power i then started to question the poncams and if it had any at all so we took the covers off to see what it had and was happy to see the tomei are real :)



post-93126-0-89187200-1366514381_thumb.j



he then looked at the timing and said he was shocked as it was fully advanced and it can be really dangerous to the motor i dont really understand any of it and how it works as the car drove fine when it was auto i thought maybe some one else could tell me more about it??? and why it would be like this the 2 photos show what he looked at and now i worry :/



post-93126-0-01038400-1366514621_thumb.j


post-93126-0-94241300-1366514741_thumb.j



post-93126-0-55611800-1366514818_thumb.j


post-93126-0-20599000-1366514852_thumb.j

well its alive and going few issues friday night with a leaking oil drain but fixed that and is driving awesome besides the tune up high needs a little touch up seems to fuel up and break down but to drive around normal its great



mate took some photos amazing



400688_545858755466076_1824031794_n.jpg




379891_545859192132699_2000550689_n.jpg




575419_545858762132742_1691795425_n.jpg





417970_545859238799361_2138768559_n.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

so every one is probably getting sick of me talking about my leaking manifold problem but what are peoples thoughts about these cant find any reviews on them dont think they have been around long

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111050847437?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

  • 3 weeks later...

bit of news on the car the past 3 weeks its up in damos shed (DJRIFT) having wiring fixed and the manual gearbox rewired we had our ups and downs with the manifold after finding the mild steel manifold i brought pushed the dump pipe across to much so the turbo wouldn't fix and ended up staying with the stainless manifold after dr damo come to the conclusion that it was not the manifold that was at fault but the gasket as i was using a multilayer type that everyone seems to speak so highly of but the layer are held together with small rivets and that was holding the manifold out just to make it leak so i went and got a factory nissan one as directed by damo and the factory one are alot thicker spent the rest of the time pulling the manifold on and off because of stripping the thread on of the head but ended up getting it on and nice and tight and started the car was amazed NO MANIFOLD LEAK :) wiring for the gearbox was done horn and high beams fixed so i can pass pits with it then had a look at the steering as ever since i got it had very heavy steering like there was no power steering after looking it to it more found that from factory the club L laurels have a sporty steering on/off switch in the cab but never seemed to do anything when i flicked it and damo was about to power the unit up that controlled the steering and was like magic steering felt amazing just how it should he then wired it in to the ignition and works perfect now... Soo now its almost there just need new turbo and a tune get rid of that shit ebay one and get the car regoed was think of getting a quick and cheaper tune by fuletech just for now till ive saved up for the new turbo and dyno tune im happy to say its 70% done!!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...