Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, long story, so here I go:

I did the RB26 cam swap into the 'ol RB20 this weekend, and drove the beast home, the car would not idle anymore after this. I also popped an intercooler pipe coupler on the drive home. After parking it in the driveway and after some intense study I noticed the exhaust cam wheel slipped a tooth while we were installing the timing belt. I ripped it apart again and lined up the timing marks properly.

The car still won't idle now, I have performed the following checks to eliminate possible problems since most of the top end was off the block to perform the swap: ensured the timing is per factory spec, swapped out the afm with a known good afm (buddy also drives an r32), swapped ignition amp with known good, run a comp check on all 6 cylinders, cleaned out the AAC valve, and attempted to adjust idle speed.

At the moment the car wont idle, runs well above 900-1k rpm and above, and the spark plugs are sooty as hell (they weren't before the cam swap). I'm thinking that when the int. pipe was off and the timing was off during the drive home the plugs became really fouled and hopefully a plug swap will help it out. I'm also leaning towards the possibility that a harness got screwed up during all the tear-down/rebuilding.

Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated :P

Thanks,

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41999-issues-after-cam-swap/
Share on other sites

how hard was it to install the RB26 cams into the RB20??

would you be able to write up a DIY thread.. be interesting to read..

if you look at the thread in the general section there is a tread about this and sydneykid tells you what needs to be done so that it runs correctly... eg. exhaust gear has to be -5 degree's or something like that....

It was fairly straightforward, ie. no different than any other cam swap.

I'll feel more comfortable writing a DIY after i get the thing idling again!

Basically remove the top of the engine, all accessory belts, crank pully, radiator/shroud/fan, timing belt, and in my case intercooler cross pipe.

I'll write an in-depth after i sort everything out.

-Matt

Oh yeah, of course remove cams and cam gears! :Oops:

Yeah I figured the idle will have to be set at approx 950rpm, the GTR idle is supposed to be 950 per the shop manual, it was pretty lumpy at 650rpm.

As for the performance gain, I'll know more when I get it working again. I don't have any time to work on it for the next 2 days, I work 12 hour days and don't get off until the nighttime.

I'll post some more detailed info after I get it up and running again. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...