Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

While driving yesterday (35 C heat) the coolant started to leak through the hood of the car. When I had a look it was boiling and vaporizing.

The first symptom seemed to be when the A/C temperature although on the lowest stopped being cold and then I also noticed the temperature gauge go all the way to 'H'.

I've currently got water in in the coolant tank.

About 2 years ago I had the same problem. I believe a radiator flush fixed the issue.

I'm just wondering why is this happening again. Is it expected? or is the problem more serious?

thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420064-v35-coolant-evaporatingleaking/
Share on other sites

Firstly, water. I was told never to run water (unless distilled, even though, just don't do it).

Water expands in heat and boils = added pressure on the radiator = fracture. Whether it be a hairline or a large crack, when things heat up, the crack will open up and thus goes your coolant. Water can also cause rust and I've seen some pretty good rust f**k on engines where they've completely disintegrated the inlets.

Secondly, find out roughly what area it's coming from, either front, middle or back of engine bay.

Front - Radiator

Middle - Possibly some hose loose or cracked due to age or other chemicals that could have come in contact and dissolve a part. Highly unlikely that it would be anything serious like engine parts, but it is still a factor to consider.

Rear of engine bay or firewall - Likewise with middle, but could also be the coolant running into your firewall.

I wreck mainly R33 and R34s and with them, yes there an occasional problem but since your car is a V35, I'd guess there would be better stuff in there.

My suggestion:

Diagnose where the coolant is coming from, change the radiator if that is the case.

Pick up sludge or rust remover additive at your local auto store and run it according to the instructions on the bottle (usually has to be left in for a certain ammount of KMs)

Buy Anti-Freeze & Anti-Boil Coolant

Once leak is diagnosed and repaired, additive is added into coolant and run for the specified KMs by manufacturer of the additive, flush and refill coolant with the same stuff you used before.

Bit of work but would save you a heap in the long run, also gives you the peace of mind that it won't happen again, not in your ownership anyway. Also don't run your car when the temp is right up to H. I don't run my 34 higher than 75% of the temp gauge.

Estimated Total cost if DIY: $250

Edit: Don't forget to bleed the air out as well. There should be a screw plug thing within the coolant line that is the highest point of where the coolant runs, unscrew it, run your engine till it sits at its normal temp, get a mate to help or pull on the throttle cable in the engine bay (MAKE SURE IT IS IN EITHER NEUTRAL OR PARK AND HANDBRAKE IS ON, otherwise you will run yourself over with a phantom driver). Leave it off until you get a constant stream of coolant running out. It will spit air, bubbles and coolant out then when all air is bled, constant coolant. Bleeding will require you to replace the coolant lost as it goes. I do this by using a 1.5L coke bottle, cut off at the bottom, no cap and tipped upside down to where the radiator cap is, hold it down firm and funnel coolant in. You'll see the level rise up and down and up again and down lower again as it flows through the radiator.

This is a general idea coming from R33/R34 RB25 experience.

Just search, there are many overheating threads for VQ series engines and they all point back to poor bleeding procedures. (the coolant system is fail in VQ's)

If you can hear a waterfall behind the dash, or if there is a cupful of coolant missing from the system, the whole cooling circuit can airlock causing no coolant flow. Let it cool and top it up fully from the rear bleed point as a start. You may have to re-do it a few times.

Here is a recent thread on the subject.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418084-help-cracked-headhead-gasket/?hl=%2Boverheating#entry6713914

lol yes they're bending you over and using the remaining cash to buy lubricant and lube you up.

Thermostats you can buy genuine Nismo ones on ebay for under $150.

$850 for labor, your judgement. I'm no mechanic but if it's faulty, it wouldn't leak, just wouldn't workand car will overheat unless the thermo stat is damaged itself then fair enough. Get a few mechanics to look at it and see what they say. My guts still tells me that it's the radiator and water problem

It's 3 screws to get the thermostat out, then dunk it in boiling water to see if it opens. You will need to get the water up over 85 degrees before it does, so do it in a pot on the stove.

The mechanic is ripping you, and probably doesn't even know where the thermostat is on the VQ.

Had a mechanic look at it and he said that the thermostat motor is fautly. Replacement/fix quoted to me was about $1000 :wacko:

Am I being overcharged or is this figure correct?

Hmm thermostat motor? If my calculations are correct this mechanic is talking shit.

Chances are it's not bled properly or you have a leak.... or your radiator cap is old and can hold proper pressure anymore.

And xntrq I have to correct you. Whether you use tap water or distilled water it will be the pressure in the cooling system that determines the boiling point. Higher pressure pushes the boiling point higher so if you have a leak or the raditor cap is old you can't hold enough pressure in the system and the water boils.

  • 9 months later...

Hi Mate,
I bought a skyline v35 250gt 2005 model clocked 75000 kms last week,, i experienced pretty much the same problem you had experienced aeround february this year.In one service station they said coolant flush should solve it and in other they said thermostat and coolant flush to be done and gave me a quote of 900$ :(.. please tell me what you ended up doing which solved the issue for you.. need an advice badly,, two days back when i was driving it got so heated up even smoke came a little bit piut of front bonnet and then the cooolant was spilled and fuming,,Is it the thermostat which is causing the problem.Thermostat change with a coolant bleed should solve it??

hI Greenpool,

I badly need an advice on how did ya sort this problem out,, im experincing the same in my V35 250GT,, what solved the issue,, thermostat and radiator/coolant flush fixed it? need a peace of mind here,, thanks!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
    • I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.
×
×
  • Create New...