Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been racking my brains and searched this forum inside out about this all too common issue. No Luck yet.

The story....

Bought a gtt, needed some work under the hood.

I changed some vac lines and refitted intercooler piping after mounting the FMIC properly. I unplugged the Throttle motor sensor when i removed the crossover pipe.

When the engine was back together I started the car up and it seemed fine, but on blipping the throttle the engine wanted to die, unless i came on it very slowly allowing revs to climb. I read somewhere that if you unplug a sensor on these things that they need to be reset.

Now I cant find out how to do a proper reset.

I d/c the battery and did an ecu reset, fault code 46 and 17 still came up.

I tried to turn the key to OFF and the pressing the pedal fully down while turning the ignition ON, this seemed to correct the 17 fault code.

46 has been a hard one to clear as I dont know how to reset it. Apparently you need to take the sensor through to its limit to calibrate it but when i unscrewed it while leaving it plugged in and ran the dial through is maximum range of movement, error code 13 came up which is a discrepency in volts between the sensor and the motor. so it needs to be connected while being calibrated.

Does anybody know how to recalibrate sensors?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420084-r34-gtt-tcsslip-lights-on/
Share on other sites

So some light on the situation....

After un hooking the battery removing the ecu, un plugging the Throttle Control Unit and then re connecting them, I did another ecu diagnostic and still came up with code 46 and also 17.

I checked to make sure the throttle motor went through its start up sequence which it did not, so I unplugged the throttle motor (bottom clip with two wires (Red and Black) on the TPS sub loom clip panel). Cleaned the contacts and tried the start up sequence and this time it ran through its close and open sequence. I turned the car off and then pressed the accelerator all the way down and turned the key to ON and waited 10 seconds. Turned OFF and ran another diagnostic, CODE 17 was gone but 46 was still lingering. after several attempts to adjust the TMS the fault was still present. So I tried holding my foot flat on the accelerator pedal and turned the car to ON and OFF rapidly 5 times in 5 seconds. (I used the door ajar beep as a rough guide). Ran a diagnostic and what do you know code 55.

So if anyone ever un clips or tampers with the TMS and gets fault code 17 and 46 try to re calibrate your sensors.

- Reset ECU - (unclip battery and brake pedal for 1 minute)

- Reconnect battery

- Accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and switch car to ON for 10 seconds

- Turn car OFF

- Turn car ON and OFF 5 times with in 5 seconds.

- Re check ECU diagnostic.

If anyone can confirm this resets the sensors and the car runs without bringing up these codes again that woud be awesome.

this i happened to have the same case, after cleaning up wires in my car, tcs+slip+engine check continuously on and engine is choking to die ..

will try your methods

it doesn't happen to be coils/sparkies related isn't it?

this i happened to have the same case, after cleaning up wires in my car, tcs+slip+engine check continuously on and engine is choking to die ..

will try your methods

it doesn't happen to be coils/sparkies related isn't it?

You need to do an ECU diagnostic to let you know what electrical systems have malfuctioned. Ive heard of the coils causing this but the ECU will tell you what the issue is

-CODE 21 is Coil Pack related

-CODE 17 is the ABS/TCS Control Unit

-CODE 46 is Throttle Motor Sensor related

There is plenty of info on how to do the ECU diagnostic and how to read the codes.

If you have troubles just let me know.

Also, have been driving the car for two days and no issues so everything is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...