Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been racking my brains and searched this forum inside out about this all too common issue. No Luck yet.

The story....

Bought a gtt, needed some work under the hood.

I changed some vac lines and refitted intercooler piping after mounting the FMIC properly. I unplugged the Throttle motor sensor when i removed the crossover pipe.

When the engine was back together I started the car up and it seemed fine, but on blipping the throttle the engine wanted to die, unless i came on it very slowly allowing revs to climb. I read somewhere that if you unplug a sensor on these things that they need to be reset.

Now I cant find out how to do a proper reset.

I d/c the battery and did an ecu reset, fault code 46 and 17 still came up.

I tried to turn the key to OFF and the pressing the pedal fully down while turning the ignition ON, this seemed to correct the 17 fault code.

46 has been a hard one to clear as I dont know how to reset it. Apparently you need to take the sensor through to its limit to calibrate it but when i unscrewed it while leaving it plugged in and ran the dial through is maximum range of movement, error code 13 came up which is a discrepency in volts between the sensor and the motor. so it needs to be connected while being calibrated.

Does anybody know how to recalibrate sensors?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420084-r34-gtt-tcsslip-lights-on/
Share on other sites

So some light on the situation....

After un hooking the battery removing the ecu, un plugging the Throttle Control Unit and then re connecting them, I did another ecu diagnostic and still came up with code 46 and also 17.

I checked to make sure the throttle motor went through its start up sequence which it did not, so I unplugged the throttle motor (bottom clip with two wires (Red and Black) on the TPS sub loom clip panel). Cleaned the contacts and tried the start up sequence and this time it ran through its close and open sequence. I turned the car off and then pressed the accelerator all the way down and turned the key to ON and waited 10 seconds. Turned OFF and ran another diagnostic, CODE 17 was gone but 46 was still lingering. after several attempts to adjust the TMS the fault was still present. So I tried holding my foot flat on the accelerator pedal and turned the car to ON and OFF rapidly 5 times in 5 seconds. (I used the door ajar beep as a rough guide). Ran a diagnostic and what do you know code 55.

So if anyone ever un clips or tampers with the TMS and gets fault code 17 and 46 try to re calibrate your sensors.

- Reset ECU - (unclip battery and brake pedal for 1 minute)

- Reconnect battery

- Accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and switch car to ON for 10 seconds

- Turn car OFF

- Turn car ON and OFF 5 times with in 5 seconds.

- Re check ECU diagnostic.

If anyone can confirm this resets the sensors and the car runs without bringing up these codes again that woud be awesome.

this i happened to have the same case, after cleaning up wires in my car, tcs+slip+engine check continuously on and engine is choking to die ..

will try your methods

it doesn't happen to be coils/sparkies related isn't it?

this i happened to have the same case, after cleaning up wires in my car, tcs+slip+engine check continuously on and engine is choking to die ..

will try your methods

it doesn't happen to be coils/sparkies related isn't it?

You need to do an ECU diagnostic to let you know what electrical systems have malfuctioned. Ive heard of the coils causing this but the ECU will tell you what the issue is

-CODE 21 is Coil Pack related

-CODE 17 is the ABS/TCS Control Unit

-CODE 46 is Throttle Motor Sensor related

There is plenty of info on how to do the ECU diagnostic and how to read the codes.

If you have troubles just let me know.

Also, have been driving the car for two days and no issues so everything is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...