Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you dont use a canton 1 way valve you'll be just fine.

How did you guys conclude the canton valve is a big restriction - did you measure pressure either side?

I run a canton check valve in my sandwich block (T'd in). I don't know what the 1 way is rated at for oil flow but now I'm curious. I run a tomei oil pump and see 3-9bar from cold/hot when driving/idling. According to other users this is normal but I also crank walked a 1200km old engine. So I wonder if this check valve has something to do with the higher pressure (alog with the tuner riding the clutch on start up, not starting with the clutch out)...

Clutch is a twin Carbonetic. Clutch parts were correct and the Only thing found missing was the brass pilot bushing. I did not do the build. I also had not started using the the accusump yet but the check valve was obviously in use.

Anyone have proof or numbers for actual flow of the canton? Compared to an earls even?

you do know that as flow goes dow pressure goes up. so that could explain your high pressure readings.

i dont have flow charts of the valve but you can visually see that its smaller internally then say a moroso one or anything else on the market. doing a quick google for canton check valve restrictions returns plenty of complaints from users. who interestingly enough ditch the check valve all together. i might end up doing this with mine. at the end of the day the oil pump itself is a check valve. oil cannot flow back through the pump

Ok yeah I'll buy that but the thing is, the oil pump isn't at the T (where the Check valve should be), it's through the filter, cooler, back and so on... Maybe 1L? So in order for the oil to 100% go into the engine, I'd have to lose a L, so to speak.

well not really.. your not going to have an air gap through the whole system. oil isnt compressible so it cant flow back or move back the length of your system due to the fact that again the oil pump cannot allow oil to flow backwards into the engine while running.

I've set up with the canton valve, had a quick look and the moroso item appears identical. I'll grab an earls flapper and compare pressure between the two when the thing gets run in.

  • 4 years later...
On 9/12/2013 at 10:55 PM, ZT-R said:

Would this be correct? Would it still draw oil if the thermostat was closed?
9732901841_fabd395aba_c.jpg

Hello all, can anyone confirm that the configuration pictured above works? I too have this sandwhich plate on my RB26, the 2 angled fittings go to the oil cooler, and I currently have the other 2 as oil temp and pressure. If possible, I’d remove one of the sensors and plumb in the accusump. Thanks

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...