Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

'A tune' is not a fixed thing... so it's hard to shop a price for 'a tune'.

Nick at GT is good at what he dose and depending on how much time he spends doing what with your car will depend on what he charges you... it's not very common that a car will roll into his workshop with zero issues/problems etc and only needs 'a tune'.

Just go have a chatt with him, do as much of the preperation work your self as you can and book it in.

Cheers

Justin

Mainly I just need an idle and boost spiking fix as the person who tuned my car struggled with those 2 things as he usually only does power fc's. I didn't have the problems before the tune so I am guessing it's in the tune. Thank you Justin :)

They're usually the two most time consuming things to get right... Idle issues could be almost anything and as for boost, I'd just install a turbotech boost T and solve all your issues all at once.



What else did you change before the haltech install and initial tune? I'd be looking at pressure testing your intake and looking for leakes/split hoses and or missing vac lines.... clean your iac motor etc and making sure your intake is all sealed up properly.



What's the idel doing?




Cheers



Justin


The initial tune didn't have those problems, this is the second haltech tune but by a different guy.

The idle is just dying (mainly if you put the clutch in at 3k+ revs) and will stall at times or come very close.

The changes from initial haltech tune to this one:

850cc injectors

garrett 3076r turbo (with custom stainless intake)

bosch 040 pump

nismo fuel pressure regulator

I had heard boost T's were prone to boost spiking, is this just a myth?

Beau, in honesty you have changed alot between tunes.. you will probably find that your idle issues are as much mechanical in nature as anything else. Do you still have your stock bov? is it plumbed in as standard? are you getting reverb back through the new intake causing map sensor spikes, is your tps set correctly?

Nick can fix it for you, just don't expect a tune will be the solution... sounds like the tune needs a good looking over though.

A turbo tech boost T is as reliable as you can get.... just don't buy any other type/brand of T. Again, Nich has them on the shelf.

Cheers

Justin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
    • The consult isn't even OBD1. It's a Nissan Consult. Proprietary.   Re read everything I've said. I specifically say, put down the laptop/tablet. Understand, and review the issue first. Logging voltages is the same as logging the converted value. Things like O2 that you say to log, is unusable for this, whether it be the voltage, or the value the ECU thinks.   The fact you don't know how to diagnose without looking at the computer, is exactly what I've said multiple times is the issue for why techs these days can't diagnose the fun issues with cars.
    • Breather for it. If it's anything like the GTRs it should run up to the top of a bellhousing bolt.
    • What basics? With these OBD1 ECUs it's not like the ECU will give you any real clues, it's not really doing any sanity checking of sensors/sensor data. My experience is actually a lot of sensors tend to be the source of the issue first and foremost, and checking everything gives you a direction to investigate. MAF/O2/STFT/LTFT should all kind of make sense. You can try little tricks of the trade like tapping the MAFs to see if it triggers a stumble, things like that. But once you've done a compression test knowing whether you have an air leak or fuel delivery problem is kind of hard to narrow down without sensor data. And you don't really know if all your sensors are making sense unless you can interrogate the ECU directly about what it's seeing for sensor data.
    • Absolutely this. Yes, except not vacuum hose. Something oil/fuel safe is a better idea.
×
×
  • Create New...