Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Kids! What time is it... Time for Skidz!!!!!!!


SAU 2013 Texikhana Season kicks off in March

Skidddd%2521.jpg

Event: SAUNSW Texikhana

Location: Nirimba Airfield/TAFE/Skidpan - same place as last time (yeah, it's got a few names)

Location map: https://maps.google....&sz=15&t=m&z=15

Date: 30th March 2013

What is it: Skidpan courses marked with cones

Lunch: BBQ will be $3 snag sandwich and $1.50 cans (selection of flavours available)

Entry cost first timers: ONLY $45!

Entry cost SAUNSW members: EARLY ENTRY ONLY $45 until 10th of March / $55 Entry fee after the 10th of March

Entry cost Non SAUNSW members: EARLY ENTRY ONLY $65 until the 10th of March / $75 Entry fee after the 10th of March


Want an even cheaper deal? Pay up front for all three events (30 March, 10th June & 7th October) for only $120 Members / $160 Non-Members.


Entries strictly capped at Max. 30 cars. This guarantees loads of runs and minimal wait time but in you don't sign up, well you snooze you lose.



Spectators: Free to watch

Passengers: $10 which is cheap compared to other clubs and events, (SUPPORTS OUR CLUB!!!) , MUST sign on, MUST wear wrist to neck/ankle clothing with enclosed shoes and approved helmet, same as drivers.

Courses: Released on the day at sign on

First timers: Don't be shy, you'll love it. First timer F.A.Q. (Thanks Owen) available HERE (Click me baby)


Those of you that have been to one of these before will agree, this is
the best money you can spend as far as driving time for an event. The
event will be run after run until 4.30pm, and considering most runs are
under 1 minute AND that we're kicking off at 9am, that's a lot of runs wink.gif


This is a safe event where you only go as hard as you want to, there's
no pressure, one car on a course at a time. Perfect for beginners to
have a first try at driving their pride and joy off the streets.


With that said, there's usually some friendly competition between mates, which is great to watch smile.gif


Timing for the day;

Scrutineering/sign on starts 7.00am

Scrutineering/sign on ends 8.30am (don't show up at 8.25am, come with plenty of time to spare)

Drivers brief 8.40am (mandatory attendance all drivers)

Runs start 9.00am

Lunch approx 12.30pm depending on how the day is going (One hour)

Runs stop 4.45pm

Gates close 5.00pm



Entrants please note:

-All entered cars must arrive in time for and pass scrutineering, no exceptions.

-All drivers must be licensed (AASA or CAMS) and show valid licence and expiry date at sign on.

-All cars must have an insurance approved fire extinguisher secured within drivers reach.

-Sidepipes are not allowed. Screamers/external gates venting to
atmosphere are also not allowed to be entered. No exceptions (this is
not my choice, I ♥ gate)

-Entries are open now, entries close as stated in Supplementary
Regulations (at bottom of this post) to allow time for officials to
organise paperwork.

-Supp regs and Entry Form are attached. Entry forms without payment will be rejected.

-Yes you can join SAUNSW on the day (allow an extra 5mins at sign on)

-Yes you can organise an AASA or CAMS licence on the day (allow extra 10mins at sign on)

-There is no EFTPOS/Credit Card machine on site, so bring cash and we
will have change there for you. If you can bring close to the right
amount, that's helpful.

Supp Regs Scrutineering and Entry Form.pdf

Please send your forms to the club GMAIL account: [email protected]


SAUNSW bank details:

Bank - NAB
Branch - Marrickville
Account name - Skylines Australia NSW
BSB - 082 356
Account number - 546 393 766

Please put your FULL NAME in the description, eg "TEXI JOE SMITH"

Supp Regs Scrutineering and Entry Form.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420374-saunsw-texikhana-30th-march/
Share on other sites

the 32 may make its debut, cage is going in this week! by side pipe is that include a pipe which exits just before the rear wheel? if so im gonna need another exhaust lol

I'll talk to Dave about it. Although, normally we do not refund unless the event sells out. We still have real costs to cover and the last one was far FAR from full.

it wasn't the last event, it was the June or July one.

check the texi thread, i recall there were only a handful of spots left and there was still high interest and last minute spots were only available by lineup early on the day.

if you can, that be great thanks!

Pedal car? What kinda car r u entering?

the mighty leaf.

since the only fire risk is the battery, which can't be put out with a foam extinguisher......but I suspect AASA don't have clear regs on electric cars yet?

the mighty leaf.

since the only fire risk is the battery, which can't be put out with a foam extinguisher......but I suspect AASA don't have clear regs on electric cars yet?

Labs/airlines recommend putting it out with water. I think Eric should specify that you have to drive with a bucket of water in the passenger footwell.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...