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R33 Gtr V Spec Rear Diff To An Aftermarket Item

Piggaz
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Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

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I'm looking at putting an aftermarket rear diff into my car and throwing the standard "A-LSD" in the bin. From what I can gather, I need all the Non V spec gear to make this work but what EXACTLY do I need? Does anyone have a part listing so I can go and get it?

I assume all aftermarket diffs require the same thing wheather it be a Nismo, Tomei, Quiafe.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

yeah it ends up being quite an expensive exercise..

you need the non V-spec diff housing and shafts,

then obviously your aftermarket centre of choice.. I went the Nismo GT-Pro 1.5, not as street friendly as the A-LSD, but you know its locked when you need it.

nothing else special required..

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

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Thanks Tricstar. That's exactly the info I need. How do you find the Nismo? I was looking at putting a Quaife in mine which have only just been released. I have one in the front and love it to bits.

Did you get your non v spec stuff second hand? If so, what sort of coin did it set you back?

Michael: Were you still interested in a Quaife rear?

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Thanks Tricstar. That's exactly the info I need. How do you find the Nismo? I was looking at putting a Quaife in mine which have only just been released. I have one in the front and love it to bits.

Did you get your non v spec stuff second hand? If so, what sort of coin did it set you back?

Michael: Were you still interested in a Quaife rear?

Yes, have it sorted. Send me an email if you want to discuss.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

Bare in mind I'm in Perth, so everything is more $$

Got the diff and shafts from a Jap importer/wrecker for $850 o-:

nismo GT-Pro $1400

diff set-up etc $450

replace boots on shafts $150

also did wheel bearings $800

and did the install myself $0

like ever job, theres always things you don't think of..

I do find the GT-Pro quite aggressive for the street, skips and clunks when cornering slowly. If the Quaife rears are like their fronts, I think it could be a good option, I know a couple of guys over here using quaife fronts and they seem pretty good the way they operate.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

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Yeah fair enough

I got a mate to price up shafts and housing from his mate in Japan. Came to just under $1000, which seems pretty good considering what you paid.

Yeah, I'm very impressed with my Quaife front. Just plant your foot and point, it's rediculous!!! Definitely makes you realise how bad the standard setup is!

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

Non v-spec diffs and shaft come up in the F/S fairly regularly but go pretty quick, but generally only around the $600 mark.

yeah I got a OS Giken 2-way up front, wouldn't know it's there until your hard at it, then its point and hang the f##k on..behind a 2.8L also ;)

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

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Isn't it funny. The V spec was the more expensive car but in the end you rip out everything that made it a V spec to begin with!

Argh... Quaife or Nismo 1.5 way. :\

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
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If it were me, I would go Quaife for a streeter in an instant. Probably for a track car as well unless it was a very serious track car.

I put an S15 helical into my R32 and it is much much nicer than the old VLSD. You'd not know it was there except that drive out of corners is so trouble free and positive. The only hassle with them is they are effectively open with one wheel in the air. This is only a problem on the occasional driveway entry and so on, and also on a track where you may have stiff enough suspension to cock a wheel, or if you abuse the kerbs.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ahhh... now I know what you wanted to call me about :merli: (below might answer it, but call me anyway lover :wub:)

As Richard said above.
Although you can use the V-Spec shafts - it's the joiner/coupler thing (I dunno the technical name) that is actually different length so if you can find JUST the diff it can work out a few hundred cheaper, but most people won't sell without so its a moot point.

On the lowest lock setting for the Nismo, as recommended by RP, mine would clunk a little but if I wanted I could've just added some Penrite friction modifier and get rid of it. I didn't care though as it was not really a problem for me.

I loved Nismo GT Pro front/rear combo and would do it again if i purchased another GTR (right after taking off turbos), lift-off oversteer and 4WD powerslides FTW. Always locked when it needed to be so it was 100% predictable every time. It was like having a RWD and 4WD car rolled into one, hard to describe.


Only "issue" was trading 4WD hellis for 4WD powerslides. Car refused to helli with Nismo front/rear & the RP spec Tiens no matter what I tried it just hooked up, so a good "issue" to have :)

  • 1 month later...
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
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not much really, just the line between pump and diff. and block the outlet with a bolt.

its the same pump and computer that runs the ATTESSA so all must stay.

Quaife or Nismo ?

Ah sweet!

GT PRO mate. :D

  • 1 month later...

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