Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i havent been on here in ages! been busy and what not, so here it goes.

cars been extremely good behaved for the last year or so. Servicing it on time, everything .

Untill last night.

Was driving fine, until it felt like the auto was being a C**t first and second arent too bad. Thirds ok, 4th is not holding. i dont know how to explain it.

is this telling me the Auto is Rooted and its time for a manual conversion? or am i going bananas and need to fully flush the auto . I did service it not long ago

Any help would be great.

Btw : In overdrive it drives somewhat ok.

im kind of nervous and worried.


A very unsettled willzgtst.

Cars not running any mods. apart from pod filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420530-r33-auto-gearbox-issues/
Share on other sites

could be any of a lot of things wrong with it. .(even the convertor) very good idea on the flush but before you do that id be checking the filter screen after you drop off the pan, depending on what / how much crud you find on the screen will be the deciding factor as to wether its f*kd or not

Can you be more specific with the symptoms?

"4th is not holding" - does that mean it feels like the internal clutches are slipping/flaring, or is the shifting going haywire eg going up and down in gear and power constantly dropping off.

Check the throttle position sensor. If it goes faulty the shifting goes haywire.

Ok basically up to third is ok , once in fourth as soon as I push the accelerator down it kicks back but it feels like it's slipping if I let go of the accelerator slight it drops the revs , I have been driving in overdrive as that's the only way it's drivable ATM .

probably the best idea is to replace it with a good secondhand unit with warranty, they are going pretty cheap.(rebuilds are over $2000) . . while things are apart i suggest you get a tranmission cooler fitted

all running smooth and fine. dump pipe was put in so thats a bonus also. u can really tell the difference between healthy autos and unhealthy , this gearbox changes gears where it should. The other one would wait for me the lever the accelerator and if i didnt, it would slip and take its time.

Thanks for all the support fellas! :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...