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Well I finally adjusted my front swaybar. It had been riding on the second softest setting for the best part of a year, just because I was too lazy to get back under and swap the link arms over to get to the harder settings. When I did get the enthusiasm a few weeks ago, I found that the nut that holds one of the link arms on had totally ceased. I had enough leverage to get it off, but the nut behind it which stops it spinning had stripped, so the whole thing just spun. I bought a replacement and angle-ground the old one off.

The car now sits flatter in corners. It's not a quantum leap over the softer setting I had, which was still a lot harder than the factory bar. But it is noticable and adds considerably to the race car feeling.

There's only one Whiteline part I've yet to put in my car, and that is the bushes to reduce the rear wheel camber. Has anyone put these in along with the rest of the Whiteline kit? I'm just wondering if it's worth it, as it seems to be the most major operation for the least benefit.

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JimX..I ahve the whole handling pacl installed..and tested in two different Moto Concept track day...before I have them installed, I am not confident and felt the excessive body roll under the fast turn 1 in EC..after have them installed, I felt confident from the body less roll and faster speed into the turn 1..also I feel I can gas faster in last turn before head in to straight in EC.

i put the whiteline handling pack onto my car plus an additional rear diff brace. the handling pack consisted of adjustable front and rear swaybars plus a rear camber kit and front castor kit.

my initial street feel was fantastic. fantastic turn in and no body roll. on the track it was a different story. still the same fantastic turn in but excessive understeer on exit. this could be attributed any number of things including tyre grip, pressure, camber and front swaybar.....the next visit down i added the whiteline front camber kit and laid the wheels over 1.75 negative degrees. still lots of understeer on exit and this was also with toyo trampios r1r tyres which are a rspec / street hybrid.

the next time down i softened the front sway bar and things were much better!!! all day i never adjusted my tyre pressures and the thing was handling really well. oversteer was on demand with my rear foot, the thing is really balanced now....

unfortunately i havent had a chance to adjust my rear setup but i really dont have to as im really happy with the way its cornering at the moment.

my settings are:

Rear Camber was: -ve 0'45', now -ve 1'13'

Rear Toe was -ve 3.6mm, now +ve 0.9mm (each side)

Front Camber was -ve 1'10', now -ve 1'45'

Front Toe was +ve 1.1mm, now 0 (each side)

Front Castor was +7'25' now : +ve 7'45'

hey guys,

i have the whiteline adjustable swaybars front & rear too.

as mine only have 2 settings each, with the rear one set hard, I found a lot of understeer with the fronts set hard too. With the front sway bar on the softer setting, much better turn in. Once I sorted out the coilover's settings, car was very well balanced.

But still have more body roll than I would like - need to lower the car further, but not possible now as it's my daily driver and I scrape everywhere as it is. thinking of trying a thicker set of swaybars front and rear to replace my existing set, with more adjustment holes so that I can experiment with more settings.

  sidewaymambo said:
maybe SK will come and clearify this?

You rang? :burnout:

I hardly ever run either the front or rear bar on full hard on the GTST. It has 27 mm front and 24 mm rear adjustable bars, they are track versions, so both have 3 holes each side, thus 5 steps of adjustment. The road versions generally have 2 holes, so 3 steps of adjustment. It's fairly light (for a Skyline) at 1,245 kgs and has 400 to 450 lb springs in the front and 200 to 250 lbs in the rear, depending on what circuit. It runs 2.5 to 4 degrees negative camber on the front and 1 to 2 degrees negative on the rear. It has 8 + degrees caster and zero toe on the front and zero toe (sometimes slight toe in) on the rear and no HICAS (of course)

As for settings, well they change a lot, from day to day, from circuit to circuit. The front is usually on 2 or 3 (I call hardest 5) and the rear on 1 or 2 (obviously softest I call 1). Generally I don't change the front bar settings much, I use the rear to balance out the understeer. Stiffer for less understeer, but not so far as to end up with excessive power oversteer, it really slows the lap times.

Fine tuning is really down to personal taste, I like a little understeer in the GTST because it has plenty of power oversteer just a throttle push away.

Hope that helps :)

PS; Remember that the HICAS is programmed to try and get the car to understeer under all circumstances. So removing it is highly recommended if you do any track work.

Standard swaybars vs Whiteline

Having said that we removed our whiteline and returned to standard OEM bars.

Please be aware, what provides grip and stability on the race track will be less than ideal on the road... particularily in the wet. Be careful!

Thats why many people are now building a club day racer that is not their daily driver.

We will be doing a lot of testing before next TT, and finally we will have cab adjustable bars for setting days.

The bushes that whitline have available remove all the forgiveness in your car... great for full hook into turn one at the creek, but in the real world, I dont think so

TT

Pics = with bars/shox & without

i prefer a neutral setting or just a touch of under, easy to balance with the throttle. What would the effect be of a toe out at the front, and zero toe at the rear?

TT: i can't stand a soggy handling road car.. the harsher the better heheh :)

but good warning for the uninitiated!

You might want to try NOLTEC in Sydney 02 9980 9777. Greg Nolan is the same guy who first produced Nolathane bushes years ago so he's been around for a long time.

They are producing a lot of Skyline stuff that's probably good quality and the prices appear reasonable. They make stuff that Whitleline doesn't such as adj front upper arms and they maintain that their rear camber kit is easier to adjust. They also state that their rear cradle bushes stop vertical and horizontal movement whereas the Whiteline ones stop only horizontal movement. Haven't used the stuff myself but I reckon it's worth a try.

Without even looking at Greg's rear bush setup my guess would be that it'd be easier to install. Part of the reason why I don't want to put the Whiteline rear bushes in is because once they're in, that's my new camber permanently. Until I replace the bushes with something else or go back to original.

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