Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have a few stagea questions for the techs.

I have had cefiros, skylines etc but i got into motocross a few year ago so i downgraded to a old 88 triton..

recently i purchased a car i have wanted for a long time, a Stagea.

i have had it for a week today and i have a few questions for yas.

1.)Is there an over driver on and off switch for the automatic transmission??

2.) i always let it warm up before i drive, if i let it warm up for 2 minutes 30 seconds ( temp gauge goes to half way) is fine, but if i let it warm up for 30 seconds ( temp gauge hasn't moved) it cuts out??

3.) last night the AT light came on the dash and car wouldnt go into over drive, pulled over, turned car off then it was fine??

any ideas would be great guys

cheers

Kris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420632-stagea-problems-please-helllp/
Share on other sites

Ok so it happened again. Driving today and AT ligjt came on . So I pulled over. Instead ogf turning on and off I stopped and took off again. It was like it was in 4th and was stuck. Sounded like it was slipoing but once I got speed was fine. The dash said it was changing gears but didnt feel like it.. so I stopped and turned it off again. Now its fine again . Does this soumd like somethibg major??? Just sucks coz cant get it to mechanics for another 3 weeks

I've only ever had a S1. I don't think you guys are talking about the O/D though, but the torque converter locking up after warming up. It'll go into O/D when cold but the converter won't lock up until the box reaches temp (kind of sounds like going into another gear though I guess). In winter I can almost get home before it'll lock up. But I don't think thats the problem here anyway. I don't know if the S2's have the A/T switch to go between power, normal and snow. But flicking it in snow will make it feel like that. Takes off in second from stand still. But I'm thinking its going into a limp mode for the gearbox. So could just be a sensor somewhere that on its way out or something more sinister. Explains why when you turn the car on and off it goes away.

As a suggestion, do this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

Have pen & paper ready.

It should give you an indication as to what could be at fault.

Clear the codes & see what happens. Sometimes, if there is a minor hiccup (e.g. slightly ill fitting harness plug) in a system somewhere, it logs a code. Even if the hiccup disappears, the code is still logged, so it can bring the light on & depending on how bad the ECU thinks the issue is, go into limp mode, like what's happening to you.

While this sounds more like a faulty sensor, have you checked trans fluid level? I know autos can get all funky when they are low.

And for christ's sake, don't warm up your car for two and a half minutes >< You're doing more harm than good.

Start it

Let it idle for 20-30 tops

Get going

Drive sedately until it's up to temp

ah ok fair enough then...

i only let it warm up that much once, usually is about 30 seconds, trans fluid looks ok but will double check levels tongiht i guess. going in to get checked soon i hope

Taking it to a work shop tonight hopefully. they didnt have the connections to run the tests last night so hopefully they have them today.

its been fine, the mechnic told me togive it a bit and i do today and the AT light came on twice =(, i had more of a play around and it seems to come on, ans be stuck in 3rd and 4th, and when its in 4th i decellerate drops to 500 rpm, again turn it off and fine, hopefully they can source the prolem today.

Hey guys, got it scanned today and its shift s/v a psw, so the shift solenoid has shit itself.

they quoted $500 approx not including oil etc..

anyone replaced one before? i know the sump has tto come out bud dunno what else has to be done

They would have to drop the valve body to replace the solenoid, $500 is a little expensive, but they did diagnose the fault and they need to warrant their work. If it fixes the fault I guess you got out of it cheap, a s/h box would cost a lot more than that fitted...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
  • Create New...