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Hey Guys,

I have a few stagea questions for the techs.

I have had cefiros, skylines etc but i got into motocross a few year ago so i downgraded to a old 88 triton..

recently i purchased a car i have wanted for a long time, a Stagea.

i have had it for a week today and i have a few questions for yas.

1.)Is there an over driver on and off switch for the automatic transmission??

2.) i always let it warm up before i drive, if i let it warm up for 2 minutes 30 seconds ( temp gauge goes to half way) is fine, but if i let it warm up for 30 seconds ( temp gauge hasn't moved) it cuts out??

3.) last night the AT light came on the dash and car wouldnt go into over drive, pulled over, turned car off then it was fine??

any ideas would be great guys

cheers

Kris

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Ok so it happened again. Driving today and AT ligjt came on . So I pulled over. Instead ogf turning on and off I stopped and took off again. It was like it was in 4th and was stuck. Sounded like it was slipoing but once I got speed was fine. The dash said it was changing gears but didnt feel like it.. so I stopped and turned it off again. Now its fine again . Does this soumd like somethibg major??? Just sucks coz cant get it to mechanics for another 3 weeks

I've only ever had a S1. I don't think you guys are talking about the O/D though, but the torque converter locking up after warming up. It'll go into O/D when cold but the converter won't lock up until the box reaches temp (kind of sounds like going into another gear though I guess). In winter I can almost get home before it'll lock up. But I don't think thats the problem here anyway. I don't know if the S2's have the A/T switch to go between power, normal and snow. But flicking it in snow will make it feel like that. Takes off in second from stand still. But I'm thinking its going into a limp mode for the gearbox. So could just be a sensor somewhere that on its way out or something more sinister. Explains why when you turn the car on and off it goes away.

As a suggestion, do this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

Have pen & paper ready.

It should give you an indication as to what could be at fault.

Clear the codes & see what happens. Sometimes, if there is a minor hiccup (e.g. slightly ill fitting harness plug) in a system somewhere, it logs a code. Even if the hiccup disappears, the code is still logged, so it can bring the light on & depending on how bad the ECU thinks the issue is, go into limp mode, like what's happening to you.

While this sounds more like a faulty sensor, have you checked trans fluid level? I know autos can get all funky when they are low.

And for christ's sake, don't warm up your car for two and a half minutes >< You're doing more harm than good.

Start it

Let it idle for 20-30 tops

Get going

Drive sedately until it's up to temp

ah ok fair enough then...

i only let it warm up that much once, usually is about 30 seconds, trans fluid looks ok but will double check levels tongiht i guess. going in to get checked soon i hope

Taking it to a work shop tonight hopefully. they didnt have the connections to run the tests last night so hopefully they have them today.

its been fine, the mechnic told me togive it a bit and i do today and the AT light came on twice =(, i had more of a play around and it seems to come on, ans be stuck in 3rd and 4th, and when its in 4th i decellerate drops to 500 rpm, again turn it off and fine, hopefully they can source the prolem today.

Hey guys, got it scanned today and its shift s/v a psw, so the shift solenoid has shit itself.

they quoted $500 approx not including oil etc..

anyone replaced one before? i know the sump has tto come out bud dunno what else has to be done

They would have to drop the valve body to replace the solenoid, $500 is a little expensive, but they did diagnose the fault and they need to warrant their work. If it fixes the fault I guess you got out of it cheap, a s/h box would cost a lot more than that fitted...

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