Jump to content
SAU Community

Hot Start Up Problem And Ticking Noise

R0yalT

By R0yalT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R0yalT Explorer

R0yalT

Posted
Posted

Hi SAU!

I started modding the r34 gtr about 8 months ago.

Stock Coil packs / spark plugs started to go when I got a vented bonnet so I have split fires put in. Problem solved but I started having slight start up problems. Takes a slightly longer crank for the engine to come alive. And sometimes took a second crank.

But I lived with it not thinking much. Put -5 turbos in, put in 1000cc injectors, fpr. Then off for a tune with a haltech pro ecu.

Since then car won't start when it's warm or hot (unless I gas it a little). Starts at once when it's cold tho. Then as of today, I started it up (cold start) to look around the engine bay and its making a ticking noise near the injectors and the exhaust sounds rough. I checked my idle and it's sitting at a very low 1000rpm.

Also it feels like the car will stall when it slows to a stop.

I've searched around, possible problems:

-spark plugs going

-one of the temp sensors are failing

-earthing problem (rain gets into the engine bay from the bonnet and could corrode the grounds)

-tune not adjusted for start up

-idle adjustment set too low (but doesn't explain the loud ticking noise)

-injectors not working properly (sat in the car for about 5months before installation waiting for the ecu and tune)

-fuel pump or something in the fuel system not working and therefore not producing enough pressure in the start up.

-Valves? (Ticking noise)

I have a video if you guys want me to upload showing the ticking and the low idle.

I'm sorry if I'm not very descriptive with my problem as I'm typing on an iPhone. Laptop is at work.

Cheers,

Raymond

Link to comment
Share on other sites
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

I think you'll find the ticking if it is a light and consistent tick will be injectors. Idle and start sounds like a problem with the tune. 1000rpm idle is fine, even a tad high...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R0yalT Explorer

R0yalT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks abr33.

I jiggled each one of the injectors and made sure it was on properly.

Decided to go for a drive to fill up. Drove fine, even started while it was warm. I know when I had the stock injectors it wasn't ticking as loud so it might be the bigger cc's.

I'll have to drive it around more to diagnose any more problems. I thought 1000rpm on a cold start is a bit low, but it might just be me.

Anyways thanks again abr33. I feel a lot more confident about it now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

Some injector brands are louder than others. Like xr6t at idle all you hear are the injectors, very loud. Provided one isn't ticking louder than another you should be fine

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Idle is fine, ticking noise sounds normal as others have mentioned. With regards to the hot start issues, I had a similar issue that turned out to be my earth cable from my battery to the chassis being loose. Check all your earth's and make sure they are ok and the cables are in good condition. Heat increases resistance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R0yalT Explorer

R0yalT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys,

I did buy an earthing kit as I suspected the current grounding areas are dirty or earth's have corroded, especially with all the rain Sydney was having.

I need to do a custom rain set up like the nismo bonnet.

I feel a lot better with the responses here. Feels like I can settle into SAU just fine =]

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R0yalT Explorer

R0yalT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Quick update boys.


The car won't even start now. It cranks over normally so it's not the battery.

Someone said it could be a belt or the sparkies.

I wish my mechanic was back from his holidays already haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Well check that you are getting spark and check your belts. Have you checked your earth cable? I don't trust those earthing kits, I had one on my car that earthed it in 9 different places, did nothing. Only fixing the main factory earth fixed the issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R0yalT Explorer

R0yalT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks hanaldo. Exactly what mine was doing except the last time it fired up it would die straight away. We'll see when I get the earthing kit. I tried sanding back the corrosion on the earthing mount on the manifold cover and the earth cable. I'll recheck the belts again tonight and the earths.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...