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So the original P/N is 226806N211 or replacement P/N is 226806N21A.

​Mine died this afternoon, who wants to split freight with me & get a couple?

22680-6N21A(current) and 22680-6N211 is the superseded part.

I bought a wrx one. Should be here today.. if it ficks out ill grab one with you.

So the original P/N is 226806N211 or replacement P/N is 226806N21A.

​Mine died this afternoon, who wants to split freight with me & get a couple?

im glad I'm not the only one who has trouble with afm bloody things, fingers crossed all good and 14 months has passed:)
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, had to post up a statement of love for these forums. This all happened to me a few weeks ago while giving a bit of a squirt.. basically stalled at 80 and i was stuck on the side of the road. jumped onto SAU on the phone.. search.. wallah I read about this common AFM issue.. unplugged it and it kicked over first go! limped my ass home and ordered a new one using the model codes from this thread and I was back on the road in 4 days (including weekend). Any other car with a poor aftermarket following would have no forum support, and would be stuck waiting for NRMA or a tow truck.

In case anyones interested in another source for this AFM.. try www.CyberspaceAutoParts.com.au

I got the sensor for $220 + delivery.. much better than $307 and 2 weeks from Nissan!

Cheers

  • 2 years later...

22680-6N21A is the one to get. Don't buy a copy one, They are actually designed differently, weigh half as much, don't last and will have your car running B grade.

Speaking from experience..

Speaking from my experience; a brand new Nissan one at $270 lasted almost 3 weeks. I'm not the only one to have the same experience. No warranty, and they laugh all the way to the bank.

I bought a generic ebay WRX STi AFM, and it lasted about 3 years. Bought one of Scotty's Chinese ones; still going after a year.

I'd buy 5 copies before I even considered buying another one from Nissan.

  • Like 1

Fit an Emanage, then you can probably go a Z32 or VQ35 afm and never have an issue again. :)

I'd be willing to bet the Maxi-Rom could probably be scaled to cope with the change as well.

  • Like 1

I'd be willing to bet the Maxi-Rom could probably be scaled to cope with the change as well.

Apparently not when I asked him, as it's just a basic AFM signal bender. If it had injector and timing control it would I suspect.

so did my first afm after owning for year and a half, luckly had one of scottys sitting in the glovebox waiting for the day it expires. so thought i'd get another (just in case),can anyone tell me is there a difference between 22680-ad21a afm and a 22680-6n21a afm, I have both here and they look exactly the same.

Ok well all differing experiences. My Chinese on lasted 4 days. It was designed totally different than the jap ones weigh half as much and give a different curve which caused idle issues and terrible fuel consumption.

It's possible there are 'better' Chinese versions as some have a green seal and others a black. My failed chinese seal was green. The Nissan sensor seal is black similar to so other Chinese copies I've seen on aliexpress.

Matt

Something tells me the Oring color doesn't have much to do with the quality. :P

When you have blown 7 or more Nissan ones at $330 each (like some of my customers), some only lasting an hour or two, you will be looking at other avenues for sure. Took me a fair while to find a decent supplier in China, but they were an exact copy, if not made in the same factory.

Check the WRX forums, the early ones ran the same AFM, they may have a better idea of which ones work.

  • Like 1

I was eluding to the O'ring colour denoting the sensor style/batch/brand to help identify/source the higher quality.

Not sure what point your making if your buying the same sensor from China that Nissan use...cheaper sure but doesn't prove or increase reliability. From what I've found on my last two M35s is failure usually increases with pod filters and power ducts. May be more pertinent to relate the failures to vibration, FOD and moisture

From what I've found on my last two M35s is failure usually increases with pod filters and power ducts. May be more pertinent to relate the failures to vibration, FOD and moisture

I've killed at least 3 OEM Nissan ones, I don't have a pod filter or power duct. They've failed in dry conditions and in wet.. no rhyme or reason. Scottys has held strong for over 12 months now I think? Touch wood.

  • Like 1

There is a always a logical explanation. It just has to be proven. I might dissect my blown sensor.

I'm sure there is as many blown Chinese as Nissan sensors. I would also expect some 'nissan' sensors are reproduced Chinese, box and all

What I can confirm is the Nissan sensor I bought for $160 was very very different weight and hot wire design to the Chinese version that I had. Mapping afm voltage and response also was different. Different curve and smoother response. If you have an aftermarket ecu you can mask a different curve.

The big problem we have on the forum is talking apples and apples. There is a chance the sensor I have now is the same that Scotty had previously. post-49288-14422990779322_thumb.jpg

This is the part that was different in the sensor that failed. It had a component in the air stream rather than a flat metal film like this one post-49288-1442299253898_thumb.jpg

This is the one that failed after 3hours use. The IAT thermistor was also double the size of the current Nissan one which would elude to later technology of the Nissan replacement

post-49288-1442299942684_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

Another interesting tid bit. If you block off your factory BOV you will induce idle and response issues , low throttle fuel Economy increases/reduction in power.

Why?

The BOV is designed to be open at idle and part throttle which enables the air to bypass the inter cooler traveling from the AFM to the engine via the shortest path. This means that there is a reduction in delay between when you activate the accelerator and when the ecu can inject more air to act on it. Acceleration enrichment can be adjusted to compensate if you have the capability however there is no substitute for a short inlet track. Nissan designed it this way to give the best of both worlds.

Air will naturally take the path of least resistance meaning there will be less vac in your intercooler and piping also giving better transitional response. People have theorized blocking the BOV will increase response but in actual practice this is not the case. The other advantage for our gearboxes is that part throttle will net more control meaning power will be closer to what the TCU is expecting. In racing terms having a accelerator pedal that is linear will away be faster around a track. A blocked BOV will remove most of this linearity give only a small difference from 50% throttle onwards.

I'm no auto sparky but is the wire the AFM susceptible to contamination from oil etc? If so part of it may come down to how it's being handled, i.e are people touching the wire during installation and leaving skin oil on it?

The wire isn't the issue, the afm has an ecu inside it which fails. Could be low input voltage causing it, but I have seen a brand new Nissan afm blow the first time the car was booted, so it definitely isn't dirt or oil causing that fault. The hotwire isnt able to be touched in these really.

The original superseded OEM part number is the one to get, they last many years, it's the new Nissan part number that fails constantly. If only there was a batch of old stock laying around. Until then we are stuck trialling aftermarket afms till we find another good source.

  • Like 1

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