Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i finally managed to get the error code which is 0100, relating to the air flow meter sensor according to the error code table.

Now if $255 plus tax is about right, i will have to order one from Lander Nissan in Prospect NSW.

On the other hand its possible to order 1 from amayama.com as well for $110 USD plus expenses like, shipping etc.

Which one would be the better option? the wait period will be around 2 weeks in both cases.

Just jap in sutherland has a 2nd hand for $110. I m just not sure if its worth it, they r saying it came out of a running stagea, but they will not guarantee if it works nor they will take it back if it doesnt work. Still best bet is to wait an answer form amayama i suppose.

Don't buy a second hand one, and don't buy one from Sinergy.

Genuine Nissan from your local dealer, or Amayama if you're happy to wait a bit longer.

+1....there are certain parts I will only get from Nissan. This is one of them. Edited by Jetwreck

Confirmed the order from amayama $116 AUD including postage. They r saying it will take 2 weeks and i ll have to pay the difference for the customs duty tax. For a small item i dont think its gonna be that much anyway. I believe its the best deal out there so far and needs to be considered for a mass order.

  • 2 weeks later...

OK i got the AFM and just put it in.

Started the engine and it looks like its running a bit rich, some black smoke was there but after a short round the block drive i think it readjusted itself and seems to be fine now.

The engine light is still on though, i ll try reseting it and see if it goes away.

Pretty happy with amayama.com, cheap fast delivery, good reliable service with genuine nissan parts.

Thank you all for your input.

Good to hear. I have a car here with the same symptoms (other than engine light), it has a seized turbo. Be glad you got out of it so cheap.

I have to order a new accelerator pedal assembly from Amayama next week, so I will see their great service first hand hopefully. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...