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By joshuaho96 · Posted
Change the transmission fluid. I would try Motorcraft XT-M5-QS if you have it in your area for a reasonable price. Also, double check your clutch is fully disengaging. If you are not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor fully for every shift now is the time to start. Make sure the clutch is fully bled. The damper line requires two distinct bleed points to be purged of air or it will not disengage the clutch properly. If either hydraulic cylinders input or output are losing hydraulic pressure in their seals/leaking you can have problems like this. If you've ruled out everything else then the most likely explanation is the synchros are worn and you need to double clutch the shift or rebuild/replace the transmission. The transfer case is discontinued FYI so you may want to rebuild it while you're in there too. If the chain stretches past spec it can do a ton of damage. -
You're selling the SS?! How much are you asking on it? -
My answer would be, that depends. If it's something that can be grumpy to start, runs a bit rich, and is likely an expensive engine, then yes, I would. But there's a few reasons why. Sumps aren't really sealed, there is airways to them, so it is technically open to moisture. Secondly, if as mentioned it has been started, and it's a fuelled up, I'd dump it, as chances are, fuel is in the oil. Next to that comes, how much use had said oil seen before it was parked up. IE, how much carbon, and potentially fuel/water did get in there while it was being used, and has now been allowed to sit, and slowly come together? For the most part, if it's just been something like a road car, stock engine, nothing wild, f**king send it if it's not near oil change spec.
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I forgot to say Mark, you know how if you lack sleep, we get Grumpy Mark? When I lack sleep I'm Grumpy Matt. We must be the GrumpMa's!
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I conveniently glossed over that part.....
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