R33 Gtr Brake Upgrade

[ichi-go]

Depends on rims, big caliper clearance rims like TEs or LMs can fit up to 355mm rotors

Brembo F50 calipers and 355 mm 2-piece discs fit snugly inside the 10Jx17″ front TE37s

[ichi-go]

I have a R33 GTS-T and am currently looking at the 2 and link of Alcon front and rears (365 front and 350 rear). The car is now 100% used for racing and sprints.

I am a real noob when it comes to this stuff.

Will these fit under my P1 racing 17x8 rims with a 22 offset? I am also looking to buy a couple set of Enkei's rims in 17x9 and am unsure of what offset I will need to fit these brakes and the car without cutting or flaring the guards.

Highly likely that it wouldn't fit

P1 racing will barely fit GTR brembos, they dont have much brake clearance so i'm fairly certain they wouldnt house the alcons

[racegtst]

Thanks, I will do some more research and use the cut out template to see if the 343mm will clear the P1's. I am looking at keeping the 17x8 on slicks for transport and sprints and use the 17x9 on R comp tyres (rules are rules) for racing.

[XGTRX]

Good thing about F40s is that that they are cheap to run so the initial investment will be cost neutral after a few year.

[Roy]

So you are in Melb? So how many track days are you seriously going to be doing every year? If its 2-3 then that is very different to 7-8. Places like Winton are far easier on brakes than Sandown and Calder...are you going to do Sprints or just drive days?

What are you running in the way of pads and fluid now?

[XGTRX]

Thanks Roy. I am just getting a feel for my setup but my intention is to do at least 10 a year. its a full weight if not heavier with the sound proofing (showing my age) and is currently on a very conservative tune of 340kw which I will be probably push above 400 as I play with it. But even at this level I am getting brake fade when pushing it through the twisties especially downhill. So I could imagine my first trackday will be a disaster. I am happy to take your previous advice and give it a go on standard calipers and your recommended rotors and pads. No sure on the current rotors and pads but can't see them lasting at track temps. don't care really about squeal or dust but wouldn't want no streetable performance as i do use it as a daily when I am in the mood. Thanks

[KiwiRS4T]

I am using a set of 330mm x 32mm 8 pot D2s on the front of my 1800kg Stagea with 17 x 9 TE37s and they pull up fine with no drama time after time from 250km/hr on the back straight and about 230km/hr on the front straight at Pukekohe. have also used them at Hampton Downs, Taupo and Manfield circuits. I just have GTR 2 pots on the rear, a GTR Master Cylinder braided lines and Motul RB600 fluid. Would think that would be fine for a slightly lighter GTR.

[Footnah]

Slightly off topic, but might help you get your kit faster..

I'll take the 33 brakes off you. Been looking for a set for my 32 before it hits the track at Nationals.

[sleeperZ31GTR]

I'm running 34 sumitomos on my 300z. I've had dramas with pulling up, glazing the front rotors.

I have a pair of F40's with custom 2 piece rotors but it's for my A70.

My plan is to utilise what's there already. The bias is good. I hit up GSL rally sport and bought a front and rear slotted set and 1ARM pads.

It was really cheap hence why I jumped on them. Because the pads are fairly soft I'll be going through more pads than rotors so it's economical. Also running high temp fluid.

I'll be running some ducting to the front and see how I go.

Like others said maximise what you have already. Don't go project mu rotors... WAYYYY to $$$

You could get ones made up for less than that.

[Roy]

Thanks Roy. I am just getting a feel for my setup but my intention is to do at least 10 a year. its a full weight if not heavier with the sound proofing (showing my age) and is currently on a very conservative tune of 340kw which I will be probably push above 400 as I play with it. But even at this level I am getting brake fade when pushing it through the twisties especially downhill. So I could imagine my first trackday will be a disaster. I am happy to take your previous advice and give it a go on standard calipers and your recommended rotors and pads. No sure on the current rotors and pads but can't see them lasting at track temps. don't care really about squeal or dust but wouldn't want no streetable performance as i do use it as a daily when I am in the mood. Thanks

Yeh, it varies so much car to car and person to person. It woudl nto be strange to have trouble on street but not a track. Depending on the roads and the tracks etc. But on a track like PI and Winton there is only really one or two stops that rqequire you to brake for more than 3 seconds...on the road you often cant carry the corner speed you do on the track so need to brake more frequently for longer periods without the high speed bits between that really gets the cool air flowing,

If the thing is borderline on the street though than I expect you are right and you will struggle on a track like Sandown. Places like Winton and I suspect you will be ok, well at least a lot closer to ok.

Frankly, I would throw a set of pads and good fluid at your current setup for your first few track days. Minimal cost and will give you a chance to just get out there and see what you like re feel in brakes with a different pad.

Having had numerous setups on my car and I can tell you about 90% of brake feel and performance is the pad. I suggest something like a Hawk DTC-70s...high temp race pads that you can get cheaply through the US for Brembo equipped 350Zs....you will most likely get a soft pedal from boiling fluid than fade from over cooking pads and rotor temps. So just take an extra bottle of fluid to the track and give it a light flush every session once things have cooled down.

Since you need to change pads anyway to start doing track work than thats a sub $500 solution to getting out there and being able to enjoy the car and get a feel for just what brakes you are going to need. You could find the money saved on brakes could be far better spent on suspension or tyres

[XGTRX]

Thanks Roy. I will take your advice on pads and give them a go. Will they work well on the 5000s as you mentioned antz was using them. In the street and track?

[Roy]

I wouldnt go out and buy 5000s. If you have them already then great...but not worth the $1300 or whatever the going price is. std is fine

[XGTRX]

Thank Roy for the comprehensive explanation and advice. I will change the pads and fluid as suggested and keep you posted. Thanks again.

[XGTRX]

Hi Roy.

Just confirming before ordering. Can you please clarify from the following list. You mentioned the 350Z pads that I note are cheaper than the GTR pads however there are multiple selections. Can you confirm the pads that you suggested above.

Thank you

Fronts

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB181U-660-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-SKYLINE-p/181u.660.6293f.htm

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB545U-564-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-ENT-p/545u.564.6165f.htm

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB545U-564-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TOU-p/545u.564.6169f.htm

Rear

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-SKYLINE-p/180u.560.6293r.htm

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TOU-p/180u.560.6169r.htm

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-ENT-p/180u.560.6165r.htm

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TRA-p/180u.560.6171r.htm

[Roy]

Yeh its odd. I have never asked the question. Perhaps ring Project mu distributer and ask why their R34 and brembo equipped 380Z pad numbers are different.

But they are the same pad shape so go with whatever is cheapest...which is why I recommended the 350Z stuff. I ran 350Z DS3000s with the R33 GTR setup I briefly ran