Iruvyouskyrines Rb25Det Neo R32

[iruvyouskyrine]

Cheers man, if I hadn't butchered my loom over the last week that would have been the company I was looking for!

However, I have pretty much solved all my problems now with a bit of persistence and a few blown fuses . I will definitely get onto writing up a tutorial on how to do it as soon as I make sure everything is running properly for road use. I don't want to do it now because there might be some little things that will pop up and ruin my life that I am yet to discover. I think a month or two of road use will reveal these problems (if any).

I don't know how many countries have the random JDM variants of Skyline we have over here in NZ (mine is a 1990 GTE) so I might just be posting a tutorial for a niche market but after months of sifting through various forums and sorting the crap from the truth I think I owe it to the community to put something back in .

Thats great man, i learn so much stuff from sifting through all the info on here it's ridiculous, can;t wait to get to a point where i can start helping people on here! Also i don't think i have ever seen a GTE, what did they have in them, RB20E's?

Also i finally got the engine in at long last. Bolted the flywheel/clutch and then tried to put the gearbox on but had a little trouble with it not wanting to fully go on. I purchased a brand new spigot bearing from Kudos and installed that into the end of the crank after leaving it in the freezer for a few hours and it was a fairly tight fit at first but then it went in snug. I think the input shaft was just having trouble sliding into the spigot, so put a little grease on the end of the input shaft and then put the gearbox on.

Didn't have many other dramas really, all went in pretty smoothly and is sitting pretty in the bay at the moment. After taking the HICAS and air conditioning lines out i can't believe how much more room there is in the engine bay, it's ridiculous!

Only major mechanical things left to do now is the gearbox x-member, which has to be extended to suit the RB25 gearbox, and the driveshaft. Does anyone have any concrete evidence as to what i have to do for the driveshaft? Many people say that they just use the RB20 driveshaft, cutting off the 20 yoke and replacing it with the 25 yoke and keeping the overall length the same. But others are saying that the total driveshaft length has to be shortened to accomodate for the longer RB25 gearbox?

Stupidly i didn't sit the boxes side by side and check the length of them >.< so yeah any solid info would be sweet!

More photos to come soon

[Albus]

Omfg. Teach me to neat writing.

[No Crust Racing]

Hey mate, I spoke with Brad and he said those cages should be leaving TNT road today.

So it should be the next day or two that they arrive at my place.

PM me your mobile number.

He apologised for the delay, his new born has been ill.

[blah_blah]

Nice thread!

Have you done your gaskets yet?

Just becareful that some neo gaskets are different to the rb25 as plenty of guys out there trying to sell rb25 gasket kits and saying it fits a Neo when it doesn't

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hey mate, I spoke with Brad and he said those cages should be leaving TNT road today.

So it should be the next day or two that they arrive at my place.

PM me your mobile number.

He apologised for the delay, his new born has been ill.

Aww yeah! Will start pulling the interior out soon then!

Nice thread!

Have you done your gaskets yet?

Just becareful that some neo gaskets are different to the rb25 as plenty of guys out there trying to sell rb25 gasket kits and saying it fits a Neo when it doesn't

Yeah mate, I did 90% of the gaskets and a fair few hoses. Purchased my complete gasket kit through Kudos motorsports so I definitely got the right kit. Hate people doing dodgy stuff like that, makes things so frustrating when things are not as advertised >_<

I also went to get. Split pin the other day and ended up getting a brand new 270 piece Kinchrome Evolve tool chest and a Makita Cordless 18V hammer drill, impact driver and grinder. A new store just opened and the Kinchrome sales rep was there and he made me an awesome offer I couldn't refuse. Glad to finally make a decent start on my tool collection haha, just need a rolling chest and I'm set

[iruvyouskyrine]

Long time no update.

Car is now on the road running after making my way through a few issues. Before i started putting my car together i did as much research as possible as to what had to be done so i could keep myself organised and on track. One of the things i found a lot of people did was put the fuel lines around the wrong way on the Neo and i thought to myself i would be sure to do it correctly.

Sure enough i spent a whole day standing around scratching my head when it would crank perfectly but just wouldn't fire. Then i remembered the fuel lines. Derp. Then i found that an incorrect plug had been put on the loom for the knock sensors so i had to rewire that and get them working. At this time i also put an amp, headunit and decent speakers in the car. Double din touchscreen Alpine unit, 6" Alpine type-R in the front and 6x9 Alpine type-S in the rear. Got a free 600W fusion amp from my mate so in it went.

Sent my ECU off to Matt at NIStune and he got it all sorted for me. When i got it back i found that my consult plug under the dash was no longer wired up so i had to redo that and then change the AFM to suit the Z32 that i am now running on the car. As soon as i did that it started running fine which is exactly what i expected. It was at this point i tidied up all the wiring and vacuum lines running all over the place to keep the engine bay looking nice.

Anyway i currently have two issues, my dash and and power steering setup.

I am not sure that i am getting any power to my dash at all as no dash light come on and my power windows don't work at all. I have read that the dash and windows are somehow connected and rely on each other to work? I would also like my tacho working haha, be good to have some idea of how many revs i am doing. Does the tacho get its signal straight from the ECU?

Also my power steering pump currently has a huge airlock in the system and i am unsure on how to get rid of it. It is making some terrible sounds and one of my mechanic mates said that is definitely the sound of air in the power steering pump. He said that there may be a bleed point on the power steering rack that i should look for but im fairly sure that there isn't and i never saw one when i had the engine out of the car. So any help with this would be appreciated.

Also, some random pics.

[Tonks]

Wheres the pics at??

Good too see its in and running though

[iruvyouskyrine]

[iruvyouskyrine]

Forgot to mention i had a heap of problems with the farking car alarm. Holy shit there is about 50 meters of extra wiring under the dash that made everything a pain in the ass.

[ty.tomlinson]

I had the exact same problem with my dash. Good luck finding any pinouts because I didn't lol.

But I have managed to get the tacho and voltmeter working and have pretty much sorted out the temperature and oil pressure gauges.

I don't think the colours will be the same so I won't bother with that but I will tell you the process I used to get mine going.

To get the voltmeter working you have to make sure the engine bay fusebox has a direct link to the battery and that all fuses are good. Also would be a good time to check all your internal relays and fuses are getting power and are good. For me this was just plug and play. This should also fire up all your lights and other ancillaries (possibly your windows/door locks too). Just realised that GTS-T's don't have voltmeters and can't help you with the boost gauge mine doesn't have one but the voltmeter thing might be helpful for someone else.

To get the other stuff going, firstly remove your gauge cluster.

Tacho:

See what colour the tachometer cable is (mine is yellow/red trace), I'm pretty sure if you follow the line that is marked TACH or TM (can't quite remember) you should find it. It pops out in one of the body harnesses on the left hand side by the computer. You connect that to the tachometer output from your ECU. Don't connect it to any input or anything random like that because it screws up the signal. I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU, so you might want to get a pinout for that to make it easier.

Oil pressure:

Locate your sender, it is in a bit of a wanky place under the plenum to the left of the filter. There are two senders under there and it is the one which is the furtherest away from the filter. It only has one post. Then suss out what colour the wire to the line marked OIL is on your gauge cluster. This wire will pop out on one of the harnesses connected to the side of the fusebox in the firewall. Connect the two together. Make sure you don't get the sensor which has two posts because it sends information to your ECU. This should get the oil pressure gauge working.

Temperature:

Locate your sender as per #2 in the picture in this link. Swap this out for the standard r32 sender from your old engine because the neo one won't work with the cluster. Trace the wire connected to on the ECU loom to the left kick panel (assuming you have standard loom). This is the only gauge I haven't got working yet because I don't have the sender. I am then assuming you will need to work out which line on the back of the cluster is the 12v positive for the temperature gauge (correct me if I am wrong) and run this to the sender. When I looked there were about three of them and I got a bit confused. I'm no auto sparkie but I've managed to wire the car up with the standard neo loom and that is the only thing I haven't worked out haha.

There isn't much info on wiring for Neo's and this is from my own experience so hope it helped.

Cheers.

Edited July 28, 2013 by ty.tomlinson

[Ryno]

Your power steering pump problem sounds weird. I've drained fluid from mine a few times and have never had to bleed it when topping up the fluid again. I believe this is because the reservoir is the high point in the system, so any air should work its way up to the reservoir. I've removed the HICAS rack (and lines) and am running a RB25 power steering pump though.

[Soundboyracer]

Bawse build

[Saroon]

Keep up the good work mate!

You are doing what I want to do, but I fear I may have to settle for a 33 rb25.

I will definitely be following this thread :-)

[iruvyouskyrine]

I had the exact same problem with my dash. Good luck finding any pinouts because I didn't lol.

But I have managed to get the tacho and voltmeter working and have pretty much sorted out the temperature and oil pressure gauges.

I don't think the colours will be the same so I won't bother with that but I will tell you the process I used to get mine going.

To get the voltmeter working you have to make sure the engine bay fusebox has a direct link to the battery and that all fuses are good. Also would be a good time to check all your internal relays and fuses are getting power and are good. For me this was just plug and play. This should also fire up all your lights and other ancillaries (possibly your windows/door locks too). Just realised that GTS-T's don't have voltmeters and can't help you with the boost gauge mine doesn't have one but the voltmeter thing might be helpful for someone else.

To get the other stuff going, firstly remove your gauge cluster.

Tacho:

See what colour the tachometer cable is (mine is yellow/red trace), I'm pretty sure if you follow the line that is marked TACH or TM (can't quite remember) you should find it. It pops out in one of the body harnesses on the left hand side by the computer. You connect that to the tachometer output from your ECU. Don't connect it to any input or anything random like that because it screws up the signal. I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU, so you might want to get a pinout for that to make it easier.

Oil pressure:

Locate your sender, it is in a bit of a wanky place under the plenum to the left of the filter. There are two senders under there and it is the one which is the furtherest away from the filter. It only has one post. Then suss out what colour the wire to the line marked OIL is on your gauge cluster. This wire will pop out on one of the harnesses connected to the side of the fusebox in the firewall. Connect the two together. Make sure you don't get the sensor which has two posts because it sends information to your ECU. This should get the oil pressure gauge working.

Temperature:

Locate your sender as per #2 in the picture in this link. Swap this out for the standard r32 sender from your old engine because the neo one won't work with the cluster. Trace the wire connected to on the ECU loom to the left kick panel (assuming you have standard loom). This is the only gauge I haven't got working yet because I don't have the sender. I am then assuming you will need to work out which line on the back of the cluster is the 12v positive for the temperature gauge (correct me if I am wrong) and run this to the sender. When I looked there were about three of them and I got a bit confused. I'm no auto sparkie but I've managed to wire the car up with the standard neo loom and that is the only thing I haven't worked out haha.

There isn't much info on wiring for Neo's and this is from my own experience so hope it helped.

Cheers.

Hey Ty,

Thanks heaps for the wiring tips mate, saved me some time

I donbt really need the stock temp or oil pressure gauge though as i have some Defi gauges to go in to keep an eye on everything

Water temp, Oil temp, Oil pressure, Boost and Exhaust gas temp should let me keep everything under control.

Your power steering pump problem sounds weird. I've drained fluid from mine a few times and have never had to bleed it when topping up the fluid again. I believe this is because the reservoir is the high point in the system, so any air should work its way up to the reservoir. I've removed the HICAS rack (and lines) and am running a RB25 power steering pump though.

Yeah i think i have finally got it sorted. I had the power steering lines running up to the cooler, and even though it sits lower than the reservoir it still just didnt want to fill with p/s fluid. All i did was undo the bracket that mounted it to the radiator support, turn it upside down and then bleed the system as per normal. Of course i ran out of p/s fluid before i could bleed it completely though, but it definitely sounds and feels heaps better now than it did before.

Took the car for it's first drive tonight. Holy feck. The difference between this and the RB20 is night and day. Was running 14psi with the 20 and only 6-7psi with this but it is chalk and cheese.

Also purchased an O2 sensor from kudosmotorsport that should be here in the next day or two.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Have booked the car in with Trent at chequered tuning down in Melbourne for the 31st August. Will chuck the turbo and injectors on and have to trailer it down to Melbourne and then go back and pick it up the following weekend.

Also have and exhasut leak at the moment so it is popping flames on deceleration haha, easy fixed just need to get some 3" gaskets to chuck on as i reused the old ones thinking they were fine.

[Miguelone]

Shulda just chucked some rtv sealant on the old gaskets when you chucked em in.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Had never even heard of it until now haha. Exhaust gaskets are only 3-4 bucks a pop so that's what i have always used.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Quick update. I installed my 1000cc Xspurt (Bosch EV14, same as injector Dynamics ID's) injectors yesterday so i will chuck up a tutorial on how to do that. Waiting on my new turbo from hypergear to get here, then i have to chuck that on and it's pretty much ready for tuning.

Other small things like fuel pump rewire, cabling tidy up and complete coolant flush still to do but nothing major really.

[scotty nm35]

So they dropped in fine with the 11mm rail Josh? Good to hear.

Where's the pics?

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yeah i believe so mate, they clipped into the rail fine and didn't leak at all after priming the fuel pump so i think they are all sweet! Photos will be up soon when i can be farked haha. Sundays are made for doing nothing!