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R33 V-spec GTR 1996

78,xxx genuine KM, only 5000KM on the full build

Engine Full built Rb26Dett
-Blueprinted & balanced
-JE forged pistons
-JE rings
-ACL race bearings
-ARP head Studs
-ARP conrod bolts
-HKS metal head gasket
-Full head over haul
-Head ported and polished
-New valves & HKS valve springs
-HKS 272 cams ( aggressive offset idle ) very lumpy
-Full VRS set Genuine
-Tomei 0.5 mm oil restrictors
-N1 oil pump
-N1 water pump
-Ever seal and welsh plug replaced
totalled at over $15,000 engine build with receipts & photos

performance parts
-Garrret N1 turbos x2
-HKS full stainless Exhaust Twin Drag system
-HKS super Dragger intercooler + hard pipe kit
-Splitfire coil packs
-Apexi power intake duel pod filter hard piping +cold air feed
-Power FC dejetro (maf-less) & hand controller tunned by Morpowa 340awkw @ 18psi
-Blitz SBC elec boost controller
-SARD 770cc injectors
-bosh 040 550hp in tank pump

Stop, steer & driveline parts
-BC BR coilovers 32 damper adjust + height adjust
-Tein front castor arms
-whiteline Sway bar D bush + link F & R
-GTR strut Brace F & R
-GTR under floor bracing F & R
-F & R diff been rebuilt
-Gearbox Rebuilt and strengthened
-OS giken Twin plate Clutch new!
-Tomei shifter kit
-Nismo Slave cylinder
-Nismo strengthened pivot ball
-Nismo brake lines
-new brake pads all round Street/track
-Brembo break upgrade 356x33 2 piece rotor
and Ferrari Brembo callipers. Huge
-TE37's wheels 18x10 white
-Toyo R888 semi slick tyres 275-35 R18 legal new!

Interior & exterior
-Nismo 320kmhr dash 11,000 rpm redline
-MoMo sued steering wheel carbon centre
-I performance carbon gear knob
-Carbonetics carbon font lip
-Jap Rear bar with diffuser fins and side skirts
-HID headlights
-Every globe/light has been replaced with SMD ultra white

alot more that i have forgot to put in as the list go's on.

Car has seen 5000km on above list of modifications. Has had another major fluid and oil change 100km ago engine,gearbox,diffs,altessa,coolant,power steer,break,cltuch, Motul & HKS oils used

LINK to carsales add with photos. to large to post on here.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1996-14303307?eapi=2&base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=5&find=v%20spec%7cCarAll&__N=1246%201252%201247%201282%204294963846%204294963593%20901%201216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price%3a30000%2cMax%7e0.5&sort=default

genunie sale please dont waste my time, any geunie questions feel free to contact me.

Alex 0421340064

post-44700-0-41380100-1362526957_thumb.jpg

Edited by PSYKO

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  • Latest Posts

    • Give the fluid a really good flush, then go do the same track again. Report back too please
    • I think most of the benefit there is really from the battery as well, having 1 kWh or so means you don't need the engine running at idle to run the AC, when the battery is depleted you can run much higher idle to charge the battery at a lower bsfc point and then shut it back down, you can regen on braking to recover some of that power too. I can't imagine the benefit from only running the compressor as much as needed is huge if you're mostly only running the AC on hot sunny days where it really needs to work hard to keep interior cabin temp under ambient.
    • Yeah, unless you're doing it by the book, your data is probably not useful. Boiling point drops rapidly with only just a little water in it.
    • How hard are you tracking it? I have 378 in front and 355 in the back with decent pads and my brakes were spongy after a decent session with lots of braking. It was a short track though but got up to around 190-200 max. be keen to hear. Mind you, I havent flushed my fluid so thats probably part of reason.
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