Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have a R34 GT-T and I'm wondering if i should high flow it or buy a new turbo.

So far i have installed a 3" Turbo back exhaust and manual boost controller running at around 10psi, but still looking for a bit more power.

I am not an expert on turbos but i am learning as i go.

My friend has a turbo off a RB30 that has been high flowed, i did read somewhere that they definitely are not a bolt on replacement, but can i use the internals on my housing?

Also if anyone could give me the part numbers of the stock turbo on both the RB25 and RB30

Or alternatively recommend a bolt on replacement with a price estimation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421181-rb25det-neo-turbo-upgrades/
Share on other sites

This has been covered many many many times...


Bare minimum = Highflow R34 OP6 Turbo + FMIC + Turbo Back Exhaust + ECU + Dyno Tune

The above mods will max out at about 210 - 220rwkw... unless you also do...

AFM + Injectors + Fuel Pump

Thanks for the link very helpful.

no i haven't upgraded my ECU yet, any recommendations on that?

I'm sure it would have been, there are just so many posts and replies to go through that i would have been up all night trying to find an answer.

  • 1 month later...

Just thought i would post a couple of videos with the mods i ended up doing




Only mod i had done before these was when i boosted the stock turbo to around 11 psi



This is when i took off the old exhaust and before i installed the 3" exhaust




This is when i installed a 3" turbo back exhaust





My cousin had a VL High flow turbo that bolts up to the exhaust manifold but has different stud pattern to dump pipe so i decided to put in, with a few mods that had to be done we made it fit. i know i should have done some other mods before this but it was spare of the moment kind of thing so until i do any more upgrades to compensate for the bigger turbo I'm just running it on low boost


.


i had to get a new oil line ($120) made, because my dump pipe from the turbo to the cat was 1 piece i had it get that modified to suit the VL dump pipe ($250 exhaust mod), had to find the a VL dump pipe and saw a few days earlier that one sold on ebay for $80 but after 1 day of searching on a friday and having to have the car running over the weekend i ended up buying the only i could find for $300 and all the extra piping for the intake and in-between the compressor housing and intercooler which worked out to be around another $50.



Total spent $520 plus what ever my cousin wants for the turbo which he said he paid around $500 which apparently was run for a round 5000km's and rated to 25 psi.



A lot more turbo lag in 1st and 2nd it wont start boosting until 3000 rpm but 3rd gear and over it boosts well. Only running it at just under 8 psi it is significantly faster then before. the night i left my cousins house i raced another r34 and he told me he had a 3" exhaust and he had boosted it to 10 psi, he had me on take off but as soon i started boosting there was clear winner :) …… it wasn't a proper race it was like a slow rolling start but you could clearly see the improvement.



This was just me taking of from a friends house




i also need to organise a ECU, FMIC and tune


does anyone know a safe limit to boost it too once i get a FMIC without changing injectors or fuel pump?




Hi guys,

I have a R34 GT-T and I'm wondering if i should high flow it or buy a new turbo.

So far i have installed a 3" Turbo back exhaust and manual boost controller running at around 10psi, but still looking for a bit more power.

I am not an expert on turbos but i am learning as i go.

My friend has a turbo off a RB30 that has been high flowed, i did read somewhere that they definitely are not a bolt on replacement, but can i use the internals on my housing?

Also if anyone could give me the part numbers of the stock turbo on both the RB25 and RB30

Or alternatively recommend a bolt on replacement with a price estimation.

start reading man...we'll see you in 3 or 4 years you'll be a genius like the rest of us

  • Like 1

start reading man...we'll see you in 3 or 4 years you'll be a genius like the rest of us

yes! go read...read a lot. All your questions are very basic and all have the answers within this forum. It's only a matter of time before someone starts yelling at you for not using the search function and cluttering the forum. I was at the same stage as you back in 2009, but i read, researched and learned. Now i can do anything on my R33 with ease.

But work out what ecu you're going to use first and stop bolting on random turbos that the stock ecu has no idea how they flow or raising boost without knowing what what your A/F or EGT are.

yes! go read...read a lot. All your questions are very basic and all have the answers within this forum. It's only a matter of time before someone starts yelling at you for not using the search function and cluttering the forum. I was at the same stage as you back in 2009, but i read, researched and learned. Now i can do anything on my R33 with ease.

But work out what ecu you're going to use first and stop bolting on random turbos that the stock ecu has no idea how they flow or raising boost without knowing what what your A/F or EGT are.

There is a lot of info on this forum which is great and the main reason i signed up to this forum, but sometimes ill be searching for hours and find it hard to find the answers relevant to my situation and then i get a bit impatient so i post the question. Ill ease up on the questions and keep searching.

I had basic understanding of engines but since i got this car it has really taken me to a new level of understanding, no doubt there is still so much more too learn.

Thats what I'm focusing on next ECU and an intercooler, once that is done ill start researching on what i will do next.

Just go a nistune mate. Get the base model plazmaman intercooler kit. Call hypergear up and get him to highflow your standard turbo. Best bang for buck. Or find a HKS 2530,2535,2540,gtrs or even a 2835.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...