Jump to content
SAU Community

Stripping R34 Gtt

r34barra
 Share

Recommended Posts

r34barra Apprentice

r34barra

Posted
Posted (edited)

Stripping my r34 gtt 1999.Car has not motor or box was auto . It is missing front end panels bonnet , guards etc. Has fuse box and acc all still there.

All Parts available minus Front Guards, Bonnet, Lights,Bar , Motor and box , all engine bay acc (brake booster,abs,fuse box etc) Available

3inch exhaust

Located South side Brisbane . can arrange post and buyers expense

If you have question ask me on here or pm .

p.s . It wont let me upload Pic. Pm me and ill send pics

Edited by r34barra
Link to comment
Share on other sites
r34barra Apprentice

r34barra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Prices on some of the gear

LH Door $200

RH Door $200

Mirrors $30 each

Tail lights pair $100

Boot $100

Rear Bar $80

4x Turbo Brakes ( hubs,knuckles,rotors,caliper) $550

Diff and Cradle (minus hubs etc) $200

3Inch cat back with Stainless rear box $150

Steering rack $80

Strut Brack (stock adj) $30

Skirts $80 Pair

Brake booster with master cylinder $80

Abs $100

Front seats $80 each

rear seat $60

90xxxkm auto dash $40

Dash surrond $20

All other stuff like inside surrounds, plastics, corner windows, suspension arms etc etc etc.... just ask me and throw me a offer

negotiable on all.

my moblie number is 0403276785

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      RB gearbox options

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Brand new r34 gtt box 
    • rbs30
      RB gearbox options

      By rbs30 · Posted

      What is the go to gearbox these days for a RWD RB? Back in the day VG TT boxes were cheap and strong. Seems they are as expensive as an RB25 box these days. What are the options without remortgaging the house? 
    • GTSBoy
      Rim help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars.
    • Notorious Skyline
      Rim help

      By Notorious Skyline · Posted

      So I’ve got a r34 sedan that I managed to get green stickered, meaning I need to go through government approved wof station for my car to be allowed back on the road for some reason my car is certed for 19x8 rims.. I need these wheels  does anyone know what offset will be fine to clear Nissan big brakes? I saw 35et for sale near me, I can’t drive the car to test fit or risk being fined ..   I searched heaps online couldn’t find anywhere..
    • Joe_Way_Jose
      2000 BNR34 new owner

      By Joe_Way_Jose · Posted

      Okay, with all that being said about sloppy blowing from twins, I happily acknowledge the superiority of a single turbo setup on the RB; however, I still plan on double trouble.  I know the -9s were quite popular for some time because they seemed to meet that sweet spot between the -7s and 5s, would introducing VCAM and/or stroking to 2.8L provide the additional displacement/flow to push twins closer to the 500-600 goal?  Does it make more sense for a daily to just do an engine overhaul, slap some -7s on it and enjoy a bit more reliable power?  Has anyone driven a mine's overhauled and tuned engine?  I know they certainly don't approach the power numbers that you drag monsters do down under, but for daily street usage, I just want it to be fun and healthy.
×
×
  • Create New...