Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys! :action-smiley-069: Ima pretty new here but anyways, was looking at getting white LED number plate lights for my r34 GTT (coz the OEM ones are getting dull and too yellowish), done some rough research and saw T10 501 capless or W5W are good choice? (have no idea what they are/what they mean but anyways...)

so i found out some links and I am not too sure how reliable these lights are :unsure:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T10-W5W-501-168-25-SMD-LED-NO-Plate-Interior-Side-Edge-Turn-Parker-Light-Bulb-/220943571213?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&var=&hash=item79165d5110#ht_4558wt_1190
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-T10-W5W-168-501-Xenon-SMD-LED-Car-Side-Turn-NO-Plate-Light-Bulb-Lamp-12V-AU-/221094725566?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&var=&hash=item791897fbbd#ht_4611wt_1190

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-5SMD-5050-LED-T10-168-194-NO-Plate-Park-Side-Tail-Turn-Wedge-Bulb-Globe-Light-/321027730094?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&var=&hash=item76c3b4b91e#ht_4425wt_1190

http://firesport.com.au/2-x-white-smd-t10-leds-8-9-28-turbo-boost--ad197134.htm

http://firesport.com.au/quality-super-bright-led-dvd-cd-head-unit--ad206474.htm

wondering if any of yous tried them out and/or where did you guys get your good LED number plate lights from, if any?

Sorry for spamming links but needed the help! Thanks in advance guys! :turned:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421308-r34-gtt-number-plate-led-light/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, I haven't changed mine to LED yet but have tested quite a few LEDs (courtesy to my local eBay guy) and have found the T10 wedges to be the best. The first link is actually the guy I buy my LEDs from. Can vouch for his service, great guy and especially aftermsales, he takes care of you. There's a few guys in on it but ask for Tom if you need any help.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T10-W5W-501-168-25-SMD-LED-NO-Plate-Interior-Side-Edge-Turn-Parker-Light-Bulb-/220943571213?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&var=&hash=item79165d5110#ht_4558wt_1190

If you're gonna be that picky, then ideally the top right one in the photo would be the best IMO:

197134_2011091122.jpg

It gives a more flooded lighting, but the T10 wedge as seen in the lower photo would do just as good. If you're bothered, you can buy LED strips and wire it up that way, but quick n easy, bulb change.

icic so pretty much higher SMD = mroe widespread and brighter?

ima probably get some and try em out soon!

Yep. The more the merrier :)

My parkers are bright as compared to plenty non-halogen bulbs.

now the only question is: What colour =)

A icey white would look sex on black ;)

Mine are icey white. It's not an actual colour, but it's what it appears to be :)

When I bought it, I had to change 3 LED bulbs to find the matching pair. One had a blue tinge, then another had purple, then blue again, then white lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...