Jump to content
SAU Community

Rattling Gearbox Noise On Idle

crumac86
 Share

Recommended Posts

crumac86 Enthusiast

crumac86

Posted
Posted

Hi all, new to this forum. I'm 27 from sa and recently been given a 1995 r33 gtst from the old man as he is looking for a rz supra. (I know lucky). Its a stocker in black with a heavy clutch not sure what kind. I have recently given her a service and very happy with it. Still pretty quick in stock form and handles well. Have noticed a slight rattling sound coming from the box area on idle, now I know there is already a post on this, but when I touch the clutch Slightly it stops which leads me to believe it might have something to do with the clutch. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421415-rattling-gearbox-noise-on-idle/
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Lulz. My Exedy Ceramic Race clutch must be a twin plate then... :P

OP, it's more likely to be your throw-out bearing. Twin plates rattle when you depress the clutch pedal, not when you take your foot off the pedal. My money is on your throw-out bearing being slightly worn.

Edited by Hanaldo
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's funny... my Noob was pointing in that direction too. :D

Mine makes a little bit of noise too but hasn't changed in 2yrs / 20,000 ks.

Do they eventually crap out badly?

Yeh they can do, like any bearing really. If it goes then it won't do any extra damage to other parts, you just won't be able to get into gear so you might get stuck. Both my RB boxes had a bit of noise, it's very common. I just pay attention to whether it is getting any louder, some get worse very quickly while others take years. If my clutch wasn't a pull type then I'd pull it off and replace the bearing, but it's too much of a pain in the ass :laugh:

Edited by Hanaldo
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the info hanaldo, is there anyway of telling what brand/ type of clutch I have? I'll get the old man to have a look as he is a mech.

Not without dropping the box and having a look unfortunately, no way to tell with the box attached to the motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...