Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So I've been building my r33 for over a yr now and finally starting to get somewhere because I've had some set back's,

Ill re update this tonight when I get home on my pc and upload some photos and build specs.

Don't hate on my to much :)

Cheers james

Acquired some brand new vskf's from jdm convept in burning black, Sizes are 18x10-12 A disk front & 18x11-5 O disk rear.

Also have some Brand new wilwood 6 spot front with a 333mm rotor, got these in a group buy on SAU over a yr ago, still need to purchase some rears

img1432to.jpg

img1423bj.jpg

Just bought a pair of Velo podium's the other day off SAU, thinking about making up some custom floor mounts out of RHS to get the seat lower to the floor, i always just find the r33 seating position to high and my head is too close to the roof with my helmet on.

img2481h.jpg

Also have a Nardi 350mm suede wheel with a works bell boss kit & works bell quick release kit, bit tight to get out other wise.

img2480zh.jpg

Bought a pair of Work equips in 18x11-3 just for thrashers, prefer to drive on genuine wheels (got over imitations) so always got my eyes open on cheap skidders.

img2239u.jpg

Decided to rip out the stock fuel setup whilst i was at it and do it right the 1st time around: 60Lt fuel cell, Twin bosch 044 pumps, 750hp carter lift pump, 2.5Lt surge tank, earls fittings, an8 hardline throughout the entire car. Once at engine bay ill be using Teflon braided line for use of e85, twin entry Fuel rail, injector dynamics 1000cc injectors, fuel pressure reg.

img1537yr.jpg

img0653wu.jpg

img1033ot.jpg

Currently fabbing up the new front strut towers, still have a fair bit to go until finished, but aiming for it to be rego'd.

Yer I ran a s14 front sub frame and made up some engine mounts to suit, not to much f*kin round

Soooo last weekend my friend Luke and I started with the fabrication of the new rear half of the strut towers, we are trying to keep as much of the old tower as possible to keep strong. Once we finish with the rear of the towers we will also be tubbing the front to give space for more lock.

img2457i.jpg

Luke going at it

img2464h.jpg

So this was the first stage of fabrication on the right tower, still needs more bracing throughout and needs a top plate welded on, but you can get an idea where abouts the coilover will be mounted in the back right hand corner.

It will be fitted with brand new driftworks cs2 coilovers all round and awaiting gktech's brand new designed knuckles to arrive with super steering arms attached.

Please keep the comments coming guys.

img2466pb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...