Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have used the search feature in regards to VIN decoding, however it doesn't give me the info i'm looking for

Long story short, there is an R34GTR (listed as Vspec) which i was interested in but it's in a different state to where i'm located.

I believe I am allowed to post up the compliance and VIN of this car because it is public knowledge by Australian road authorities

The Australian compliance plate VIN is 6T91MPV9712BRA008 and the car is registered in VIC.

I have also attached the Jap Chassis no and model details on the compliance plate.

2 questions.

1. Almost all imported Skylines I have seen start the Australian VIN with 6U9xxxBNR34xxxx. Why would this VIN be so different? It is registered with VIC roads and can be searched using their free Rego check service

2. On the Jap compliance plate, i thought all BNR34's chassis number were 6 digits. I.E BNR34-123456. This chassis number has 7 digits being 0000710

Nissan Fast does not pick up this VIN either?

Whilst I am being considerate to the seller and trying not to waste his time, I think i am doing nothing wrong by putting these details up in public forum.

Can anyone help?

post-74132-0-02976800-1363138258_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421574-decoding-bnr-vin-model-of-r34gtr/
Share on other sites

The first part can be explained - that new VIN would be correct if it was complied under the old system. The 6U9XXX deal only started with SEVS in 2005.

Secondly, that plate doesn't look legit to me. You mentioned the chassis number having an extra digit which is a fair giveaway, but also, have a look at the condition of the plate compared to the condition of the firewall around it.

Double-checking my R34 encyclopaedia, I reckon someone has scored themselves a blank plate and stamped that themselves. It's a very good stamping job, but it's not a factory one. I'd be curious to see what the chassis number on the firewall is (if it's there).

To answer your question, yes it can be registered anywhere fine, but I wouldn't trust its history as far as I could throw it based on that plate.

True^^

Is this car Sonic Silver in colour?

The paint code "KR4" indicates that it should be.

Geez that VIN Plate is scratched up!

And yes, the rivets that hold the plate to the wall don't seem to be the usual look.

This could be a case of stolen in Japan and recovered in Japan and sold.

Edit: not a stolen and then sold car.

I've had a car in a similar situation. Not a skyline. A soarer though. Had a similar Australian Vin.

Thanks Chef. I've def scratched the idea of looking at the car now.

Terry, yup, car is sonic silver. The car is on carsales for public viewing, so if you do a search for GTR's in the 40-50K range it wil be there :-)

Thanks Chef. I've def scratched the idea of looking at the car now.

Terry, yup, car is sonic silver. The car is on carsales for public viewing, so if you do a search for GTR's in the 40-50K range it wil be there :-)

Saw it. looks pretty neat. Pity about the vin plate.

So I had a poke around Google and I believe i found a VIN plate that is legitimate. Compared the two and just put it together in MSpaint. Something to think about for prospective buyers to look at?

Not sure if I've pointed out the areas of interest correct though

post-74132-0-12818400-1363156181_thumb.jpg

i know that my gtr has had the legitimate VIN on the firewall and another one placed under the front strut bar (the bar between shock absorbers in engine bay). It was quite a nice way to hide it and may be something that people dont notice. Also i believe the tag on the drivers side seatbelt where it bolts to the bottom sill near the door has information about the date the car was manufactured and other car info which you may find useful. Not sure if this is the same for all skylines/gtrs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...