Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It seems Garrett GT30xxRs are popular upgrades on RB25s but they don't just fall in so I'd like to know whats the best bits to make it happen . Basically you need a dump pipe and an inlet pipe and a spacer plate to get the compressor housing off the exhaust manifold . Then you'll need longer mounting studs and plumb oil and coolant in/out .

Someone here mentioned that Liverpool Exhausts make a nice one piece dump and front pipe so that would be handy . It looks like like the easiest suction side would be a 90 degree 4" to 3" silicon or rubber bend and some sort of steel/aluminium/stainless tube section to connect the plumbing and AFM . I say AFM because some people like have something that looks like its doing something and connects to the std airbox .

I don't know how inconspicious you can make a GT30R but the more the better IMO .

So , can we have some examples of what/whos bits people have used to fit these turbos to RB25s .

Cheers A .

A bright blue silicone bend won't be conspicuous, lol, but seriously if you run a silicone 90 off the front it will suck in on boost. You need a stainless or alloy hardpipe intake, that much has never changed.

Don't like blue as in silicon or uniforms . It would have been black or preferably flat black .

I did find in Mick o's thread a pic of his dump/front pipe .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/375232-garrett-gtx3071r/page-9

I like bell mouthed ones myself .

Does anyone have pics of an install that retains the std airbox and possibly the MAF ?

Cheers A .

black silicon joiners for intake hardpipe , powercoat black 3 inch metal intake and comp cover of turbo , and remake a turbo heatsheild from the ACL shit

you can completly hide the big comp cover with the ACl stuff ... easy..will look stock to anyone except skyline heads, you can even

hide a 38mm gate of exhaust housing easy with that stuff, Im doing it atm, just waiting for stuff to come back from powdercoaters

then i have a made up airbox, that hides the Boost control solenoid, oil catch can and radiator overflow

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

That's on a stock turbo though isn't it Scott? DP is specifically wondering about whether that could be done with a GT30 on a spacer plate off the stock manifold. Obviously it's just a tweak to the design, seeing as shit won't move far, but it appears he needs reassurance.

Attached are photos of my intake pipe, linking my Z32 to my Hypergear with a breather in between.

The pipe was made by Mick_O, who is an absolute perfectionist when it comes to this. He's in the west and I believe he will be happy to fab one for a fee for anyone interested.

The welds were done to a colouring and finish that i requested. He noted and showed me that he can also make the pipe to have no marks or burn colour. The pipes are also made from medical/food grade stainless bits, all butt welded except on the 20mm bung (no filler wire).

You can obviously prep that and paint is fluro pink if you like. Matte black wouldn't be hard either.

post-43588-0-05677400-1363575908_thumb.jpg

post-43588-0-99245900-1363575920_thumb.jpg

post-43588-0-75364300-1363575943_thumb.jpg

post-43588-0-49902400-1363575960_thumb.jpg

That's on a stock turbo though isn't it Scott? DP is specifically wondering about whether that could be done with a GT30 on a spacer plate off the stock manifold. Obviously it's just a tweak to the design, seeing as shit won't move far, but it appears he needs reassurance.

Yep, works on any turbo in the stock location (low mount). 80mm alloy should be good for well over 350wkw.

I use a 4" - 3" reducer off the turbo, 3" 90º stainless bend, 45º silicon and 3" stainless 45º bend to the afm. I use a custom airbox as I experienced lots of stalling when backing off the throttle with just the 90º bend. Then the usual spacer, dump/front, solid oil drain and braided oil feed. Seems to work.

Well I basically wants a "suction" pipe made to line up with the GT3076Rs (same dimensionally as your GTX3071R) in stealth black . Aluminium would be nice because it won't rust internally .

I also need a dump/front to suit the GT30 0.82 AR IW turbine housing , I have a large body 3" Catco 8007 in the std location and it fitted the std front pipe .

I was speaking to the feller I wanted to fit this turbo today but he's a one man band booked out for weeks servicing daily drivers .

I reckon with the main bits made changing over shouldn't take that long . I intend to reuse the GTRSs oil and water lines because they fit the same .

Mick do you still have your Z32 and airbox ? If so would you consider making me the inlet section using yours as a template ?

Couple of things I was wondering about . I always thought thermal wrapping stainless was no issue and my old dead Subies fabbed stainless header was like this . I was told today that wrapping staino would make it harden and crack though thats not what I've found in the past . It would be good to keep the heat out of the bay and in the gas with the dump/front pipe .

Also whats the go with longer manifold studs , does anyone make anything OE std ?

Cheers A .

I wrap all my stainless dumps, I have never had any come back.

I think they are talking about thin stainless exhaust manifolds, as I have seen them glow white hot before. Not something you would want to heat wrap.

Does your suction pipe require bov/breather fittings also?

Well I basically wants a "suction" pipe made to line up with the GT3076Rs (same dimensionally as your GTX3071R) in stealth black . Aluminium would be nice because it won't rust internally .

I also need a dump/front to suit the GT30 0.82 AR IW turbine housing , I have a large body 3" Catco 8007 in the std location and it fitted the std front pipe .

I was speaking to the feller I wanted to fit this turbo today but he's a one man band booked out for weeks servicing daily drivers .

I reckon with the main bits made changing over shouldn't take that long . I intend to reuse the GTRSs oil and water lines because they fit the same .

Mick do you still have your Z32 and airbox ? If so would you consider making me the inlet section using yours as a template ?

Couple of things I was wondering about . I always thought thermal wrapping stainless was no issue and my old dead Subies fabbed stainless header was like this . I was told today that wrapping staino would make it harden and crack though thats not what I've found in the past . It would be good to keep the heat out of the bay and in the gas with the dump/front pipe .

Also whats the go with longer manifold studs , does anyone make anything OE std ?

Cheers A .

Sorry bout the slow reply disco but i have sold my car and all the parts too so need another 33 to work on mate :unsure:

I dont do much alloy work tbh stainless is what i work with and it wont rust internally either btw :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...