Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you are aware i bought a 1977 C210 Skyline ex rally car, it has seen better days and was sitting unloved for a while, a family member picked it up did afew khanacrosses with it and parked it. Now its in my hands i want to tidy it up and use it as a daily driver as well as a rally / track car.

I used to race go karts and loved it and to be honest racing the skyline will actually be cheaper than karting!

Some details on the car, 12/1977 Build, L28 Engine 5 speed manual, black interior, was originally green paint. Has a Bolt in steel bonds 6 point cage which the front section will need to come out for rego.

IMGP2609_zps173a2c7f.jpg

IMGP2615_zps6ee57c7b.jpg

All previous sponsors have now been removed.

Filthy Interior, would like to clean it up as much as possible and run some checkerplate on the floors in the front. Replace the Drivers seat with one that offers abit more support or get the Stratos seat re padded to suit my body.

IMGP2614_zps75a5a5e8.jpg

Now before people get up me for rallying / racing a 'rare' car i have to say 1 thing, Its My car and i can do with it what i want BUT i will not ruin it, I look after my cars and have had many classic 70's cars including Torana Hatchbacks and they were all my pride and joys and looked after. She wont be thrashed and bashed.

The front Bumper is shagged and requires replacing or removal and the massive nudge bar will be coming off and put back onto the kenworth it came from lol. The Bonnet is very rusty but i think i can save it. The roof has some rust in it from the drip rail to the rear windscreen which will need to be repaired before i put it on the track / dirt.

Carby is apart now and has been cleaned up and i'll put a new kit through it on my next day off and also a new float is on order as the original one was as soft as cheese.

dirtycarb_zpscd1b4423.jpg

This is my first track car and will be a big learning curve but i'm happy to do it and prove you can have fun on a budget.

More pics to come as i get to work on it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421953-c210-rally-car-fix-up/
Share on other sites

What a unique build! Good luck with it :)

What do you know about the competition history of the car?

You should consider bringing it back as close to the original rally spec as possible, it is likely to be worth more that way ;)

Nothing of real significance in its history, i know it was a rally school car in its lifetime with Ian Luff, Not meant to be anything else ( or so i've been told ) but i've found afew things to prove them otherwise so i will be digging abit further. If it has any real history i would love to take it back to its original paintjob etc but i would like to make it my own as well.

That's very cool. But I've always had a soft spot for the ugly Datsuns.

Dave Gaines runs a budget 240K sedan rally car very, very quickly up here, proving these things are a good base for a rally car.

Look forward to some action pics/videos

Ah thats better, ditched the nudge bar and the bonnet pins, next step is to tune the rebuilt carb and get some signage on it, looks abit less bogan now without the nudge bar. Think i will go with a belt as the secondary bonnet tie down instead of the pins. Next step is to swap the diff out and replace alot of suspension bushes as they are all shagged.

486251_10201122000836826_2027220585_n_zp

Triple Webers with K&Ns

Dellortos will make the grade too, basically a copy of Webers.

Much better result all round - have a close look at what the classic/tarmac rally guys running L series engines in early Z cars do and it might add some weight to the comments above..

Edited by Dale FZ1

You won't get more engine friendly air cleaners than the factory paper elelment IMO. K&N filters have no place on a rally car or any other dusty environment.

And there's no point going to triples if the engine is standard - keep the standard carb. It will just be $1500 wasted. With big cam, compression, headwork and good pipes, yes go triples. But if you go with a mild cam and mild head, a more sensible and cost effective carb upgrade might be a holley, which are used to good effect on some 240Ks up here.

The air cleaner was putrid and the inside of the Carb had mud in it. Would there be any benefit of directing the air in from the front of the car for dirt events? My main aim is to run the car on tarmac hill climbs and sprints but dirt will be its first outing. Feel free to throw ideas around guys.

previous owners may have run it without a filter?

make sure you've got the correct filter, and that it seals against the top and bottom of the air cleaner assembly. And all the pipes underneath are either connected or blanked off.

Yes, drawing air from the front of the car will be cleaner, but sometimes rallying, the dust just hangs in the air if its a still day.

You could run a pre cleaner if you are paranoid about dust.

  • 3 months later...

hey guys, well the c210 went through a phase that i like to call ' annoy my f*****g owner ' phase. Refused to start for weeks. Anyway thats all sorted now and as of yesterday it starts first turn of the key.

The plan to have it registered as a daily driver and a rally car has gone out the window as it will need to much to bring it up to road worthy condition, mainly with the fact that i'm bound to break something when i rally it. So it will be a trailer queen, albeit a dirty one!

  • 1 month later...

Okay guys, i've been getting the datto running as she had some issues, i've decided now that i will lower the raised suspension and swap the rally tyres for some track tyres and try her on the tarmac.

Looking for some lowered springs for her to start with get it handling and stopping well and then engine mods.

Between the motorcycle rebuild, vintage go kart restoration, holden restoration she will get there. Its going to be on a major budget but i've always wanted to race and the datto is my chance to hit the track. Any help is much appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...