Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I bought a 1.5way ATS metal rear diff. Now, I'm thinking should I buy a front diff lsd as well ? Car is mostly street-driven but expect to make about 30-50 launch a year and maybe 5 track event ( never went lapping yet, so I'm a newb)

I searched and couldn't find much information really. Not enought to make a concensus, at least. What I found from GTR.UK is the front lsd is somewhat a bad idea and difference should be very marginal and very bad if used on the street. ( but this is mostly regarding 1.5way).

Here, only few peoples have spoken and most said, they were good when matched with other drivetrains mods. other only said quaife was better but not why or anything else..

So please tell me, what if I buy a cusco LSD and set it to 1way instead of 1.5way. would I see a gain or really 90%of the difference is located at the rear wheels ( and it has already been taken care) ? and how would my street driving be affected ?

I live in downtown and can be stuck in traffic from times to times so I always try to make it as street friendly as possible.

Thanks a lot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422006-front-cusco-lsd-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

100% the quaife center.

There is no other choice for a GTR when I'm asked to fit one.

They aren't noisey and bang around

They transition nicely when power is applied

Drive is always consistent to the front axles

They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

  • 2 weeks later...
  On 20/03/2013 at 6:19 AM, Piggaz said:

Quaife. Just do it and don't think about it.

You don't know it's there until you want it to be.

  On 20/03/2013 at 9:16 AM, Risking said:

100% the quaife center.

There is no other choice for a GTR when I'm asked to fit one.

They aren't noisey and bang around

They transition nicely when power is applied

Drive is always consistent to the front axles

They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

Exactly,

I to have the Quaife front LSD and I forget it's even there, brilliant for daily street driven GTRs that do occasional trackdays or drags

  On 30/03/2013 at 4:41 AM, XKLABA said:

Exactly,

I to have the Quaife front LSD and I forget it's even there, brilliant for daily street driven GTRs that do occasional trackdays or drags

That's one thing I did notice with the few launches I have done with the quiafe in. It launches SO MUCH BETTER! Stupid standard diff crap!!!

  On 04/04/2013 at 10:30 PM, paulR32gtr said:

Hi Paul - can you PM me as well please ... it's something I have been thinking about for a while

You won't be looking back... I sound like a broken record, but it's one of the best things I've done to the car.

Hey Paul

I am thinking of going this way on my R32GTR build. I recently purchased a quaiffe 6 speed dog box for the car(not fitted yet). I am thinking this Quaiffe front diff might be a nice compliment to the new engine and box I am adding. Do you have any other suggestions for the drive train?

Can you PM me the details of your dif supplier as well? Cheers.

Next time you are down Paul I'll have to take your car for a spin and see the difference between your Quaife and what my Nismo front LSD was like, as my Nismo was exactly the same as this one it settled in (about 500kms)


  On 20/03/2013 at 9:16 AM, Risking said:



They aren't noisey and bang around
They transition nicely when power is applied
Drive is always consistent to the front axles
They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

  On 14/04/2013 at 11:32 PM, R31Nismoid said:

Next time you are down Paul I'll have to take your car for a spin and see the difference between your Quaife and what my Nismo front LSD was like, as my Nismo was exactly the same as this one it settled in (about 500kms)

NP man. I think we are coming down for the next DECA. Hopefully you can make it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...