Jump to content
SAU Community

The Difference Between Differentials

Burnz
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Some of the R34s had the speed sensor on the diff. These diff housings are different, (as far as I know).

Otherwise though, a Nissan CW&P set from one R200 will work equally well in another R200 housing. The bearings should also be the same.

Some R34s were helical, not viscous. I cannot vouch for whether the side bearings on these are the same as their crappy brethren, but there's not real reason why they should be different.

  • 2 weeks later...
simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

AFAIK know.

R33 GTST:

ABS has speed sensor on nose - diff housing is longer

NON-ABS has no speed sensor and shorter diff housing

All have 29mm, 30 spline output shafts (same as S13-S14, R32)

R34 GTT:

All have speed sensors on output shafts. Diff are the same length as R33 NON-ABS.

Series 1 have viscous

Series 2 (manual, turbo ONLY) have helical centre

All have 30mm, 31 spline output shafts (same as S15 BUT 5-bolt).

Therefore you CAN swap a R34 GTT diff into an R33 as long as the R33 is non-ABS. You CANNOT swap the centres from an R34 into anything R33, R32, S14, S13 as the output shafts are 1mm larger on the R34 and S15.

Some of this is, as yet, unconfirmed.

Edited by simpletool
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Just to throw some confusion into all that.....I put a helical centre that was supposed to have come from an S15 (had S chassis 3.7 gears on it) that strangely came in an S14 housing into my R32 housing, using 4.11 gears from an R34 VLSD.

Granted, I used the 3x2 stud half shafts that came with the helical centre, so I don't know for sure if the spline count and diameter were different from the R32/3/4 sized ones. But it went into an R32 housing OK.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

If it helps I put an R34 manual GTT diff into my non-abs R33 yesterday. Fitted up no problems.

Well actually there was a problem because the whiteline pinion mount bushes were slightly too small ID but it all got sorted with the help of an angle grinder.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Thanks simpletool... I have the series 1 GTT, I know the half shaft's on the the S15 are different, but can I put the diff centre from one into my GTT? I think their helical, does that matter?

Apparently this does work. As both diffs have the 30mm, 31 spline output/half-shafts, which the centres on S15 and R34 are made for. I have no real proof of this however, but it is something I am also looking at doing one-day.

  • 1 year later...
fmlycar Proficient

fmlycar

Posted
Posted

What exactly do I need to fit a s15 helical centre into my S1 stagea diff then? Centre only, or are the stub axles different too? And what about the c/w bolting up? Same size bolts? I'm assuming I should be ok if I use the centre, bearings and stub axles?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...