Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car has been sitting there for 4 months start it up. Slight knocking noise

Dump the oil change the filter add some lifter stuff as that was first thought a stuck lifter.

Still same noise but louder

Here's the list of things we checked

Water pump- took belt of so it wasn't spinning

Spark- took spark plugs out and turned it by hand

Coil- unplugged the coils one by one. Still there

Turned it over by hand.

Cam covers off. Took off, spun by hand then started it without the cam covers, no issue

Injectors - took injectors off, unplugged one by one sound still there

Also removed cam covers and ran the car. Knock is definitely lower down then cams

My knock

Video that covinved me

So, anyone have any ideas ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422052-rb25-knock/
Share on other sites

It doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me. More like lifter noise. Probably since the car has been sitting for so long the lifters are gummed up and there isn't the right amount of oil in the hydraulic lifters. You can take them out, take them appart and clean them then re assemble with some oil in them. there is a thread on here in the DIY section of how to do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422052-rb25-knock/#findComment-6791128
Share on other sites

I reckon he stated man that lifter stuff has been added, Death rattles for me have always sounded alot worse than that to me. While it doesnt sound very healthy and could possibilly be a spun bearing i would check these things

1. check compression, should be all even and around 150psi

2. It sort of sounded like a leaking exhaust manifold gasket from the video so maybe check that

3. If its got fresh oil and the lifters are the problem try driving around gently and see if the problem perists, if it gets better chances are it was just lifters :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422052-rb25-knock/#findComment-6792144
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...