Big End Bearing Colour

[portaz]

Hi guys just finishing my build and I took the sump off to look at the inside it has eagle rods and when I pulled the caps and checked clearance with plast gauge it's about 2 thou but the bearing all have a consistent blueing colour to them where the mains don't, is this normal or should I replace them? Crank journals are perfect.

Scott

[GTScotT]

Can you post a pic mate?

Please also give us some history on the motor and what brand the bearings are. Tell us where you bought it, who built it and how many KM's its done.

Cheers,

[portaz]

I can't post pic from phone, bought from another member, 2000kms built by john milentis in Gold Coast , ran penrite running in oil for 1000ks then another penrite semi synthetic I think, r34 crank brand new std oil pump eagle rods cp pistons, jun sump baffle, tomei oil restrictor and external oil drain, it's just colour no pick up and crank perfect. Cam Jounals perfect also.

[SiR_RB]

What brand bearings are in it?

[portaz]

Acl plus .25

[Roy]

Why the oversized bearings if it is a new R34 crank?

[SiR_RB]

Exactly my thoughts

Should have STandard size in there, unless the journals have been machined/linished

[r33_racer]

I think the lack of punctuation is creating that confusion. I'm gonna guess its a second hand r34 crank, but new std oil pump.

The blue staining is std on acl bearings. They all tend to have it, just some have more then others.

[Trozzle]

We should stop assisting people who can't spell/punctuate/use correct grammar.

The OP's post is good enough, for the record.

[GTScotT]

My ACL race series were not blue, here's a pic:

[portaz]

Gee if your referring to my punctuation sorry but I'm recovering from brain surgery and regardless this is a mechanical forum not an English lesson. I'm not sure if crank was new or not but oil pump certainly was. Judging people without knowing their circumstance is cruel and silly at best.

[r33_racer]

I never said it wasn't good enough. I don't care for the use of proper English or not. But the way the engine parts were listed could have made it slightly confusing for others.

So back on topic, I have had acl bearings with almost no blueing on them and some with lots. I think it's apart of the coating on them.

[portaz]

It was trozzle to whom I was referring, I ordered another set from uas, as for $100 it's just not worth the risk due to the work involved it putting these engines in and out. I thought it may be ok though as they are all the same from 1 to 6. Thanks for the constructive feedback guys.

Scott

[GTScotT]

Be it myself I would pull the crank and give that to a machinist, let them check it and then give it back to you with a matched set of bearings. Shouldnt cost any more than $400.

That's a much safer way to go.

Also, Trozzle wasnt being mean to you mate. He was being sarcastic to the person who whinged about your grammar. He also said your post was fine.

Dont worry, you will get the help you need. Sorry to hear about your surgery and hope everything ends up fine.

[portaz]

I was thinking to pull the crank but with harmonic balancer installed I'm not sure how to really go about it. Any tips?

[Trozzle]

It was trozzle to whom I was referring, I ordered another set from uas, as for $100 it's just not worth the risk due to the work involved it putting these engines in and out. I thought it may be ok though as they are all the same from 1 to 6. Thanks for the constructive feedback guys.

Scott

What the other Scott said.

[portaz]

Sorry mate took it the wrong way.

[GTScotT]

Personally I would remove the plugs and turn it on its head. Then disassemble all the bottom end and leave the pistons/rods in it. Take the crank off and all, clean up the mess you made and put it back together as your own.

Is there any reason you don't want to take the balancer off? Surely its not balanced all the way through when they are only using eagle rods?

The only thing id be worried about is if the rods are out of round. Its going to be next to impossible to check while they are attached to the motor coz you wont be able to torque them down or possibly even fit the tool in. The journals being the cause of added heat is 1 concern but the actual closing of the rods another. You can only do whats feasible though and theres no point rebuilding an entire bloody motor purchased because it was already built, it defeats the purpose.

Too late to refund due to concerns?

[portaz]

I would take it off but they are so tight the way I usually do it is when it's in car with starter it's easy but out of car it's pretty hard unless I get 3/4 " or 1" rattle gun

[GTScotT]

Where are you located?

I have a snap on 500NM 18v gun which will get it off. If its easy I can swing by and rattle it off for you easy.