Jump to content
SAU Community

Big End Bearing Colour

portaz

By portaz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

portaz Mentor

portaz

Posted
Posted

Hi guys just finishing my build and I took the sump off to look at the inside it has eagle rods and when I pulled the caps and checked clearance with plast gauge it's about 2 thou but the bearing all have a consistent blueing colour to them where the mains don't, is this normal or should I replace them? Crank journals are perfect.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422064-big-end-bearing-colour/
Share on other sites
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Can you post a pic mate?


Please also give us some history on the motor and what brand the bearings are. Tell us where you bought it, who built it and how many KM's its done.


Cheers,

portaz Mentor

portaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can't post pic from phone, bought from another member, 2000kms built by john milentis in Gold Coast , ran penrite running in oil for 1000ks then another penrite semi synthetic I think, r34 crank brand new std oil pump eagle rods cp pistons, jun sump baffle, tomei oil restrictor and external oil drain, it's just colour no pick up and crank perfect. Cam Jounals perfect also.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

I think the lack of punctuation is creating that confusion. I'm gonna guess its a second hand r34 crank, but new std oil pump.

The blue staining is std on acl bearings. They all tend to have it, just some have more then others.

portaz Mentor

portaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gee if your referring to my punctuation sorry but I'm recovering from brain surgery and regardless this is a mechanical forum not an English lesson. I'm not sure if crank was new or not but oil pump certainly was. Judging people without knowing their circumstance is cruel and silly at best.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

I never said it wasn't good enough. I don't care for the use of proper English or not. But the way the engine parts were listed could have made it slightly confusing for others.

So back on topic, I have had acl bearings with almost no blueing on them and some with lots. I think it's apart of the coating on them.

portaz Mentor

portaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It was trozzle to whom I was referring, I ordered another set from uas, as for $100 it's just not worth the risk due to the work involved it putting these engines in and out. I thought it may be ok though as they are all the same from 1 to 6. Thanks for the constructive feedback guys.

Scott

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Be it myself I would pull the crank and give that to a machinist, let them check it and then give it back to you with a matched set of bearings. Shouldnt cost any more than $400.

That's a much safer way to go.

Also, Trozzle wasnt being mean to you mate. He was being sarcastic to the person who whinged about your grammar. He also said your post was fine.

Dont worry, you will get the help you need. Sorry to hear about your surgery and hope everything ends up fine.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

It was trozzle to whom I was referring, I ordered another set from uas, as for $100 it's just not worth the risk due to the work involved it putting these engines in and out. I thought it may be ok though as they are all the same from 1 to 6. Thanks for the constructive feedback guys.

Scott

What the other Scott said.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Personally I would remove the plugs and turn it on its head. Then disassemble all the bottom end and leave the pistons/rods in it. Take the crank off and all, clean up the mess you made and put it back together as your own.

Is there any reason you don't want to take the balancer off? Surely its not balanced all the way through when they are only using eagle rods?

The only thing id be worried about is if the rods are out of round. Its going to be next to impossible to check while they are attached to the motor coz you wont be able to torque them down or possibly even fit the tool in. The journals being the cause of added heat is 1 concern but the actual closing of the rods another. You can only do whats feasible though and theres no point rebuilding an entire bloody motor purchased because it was already built, it defeats the purpose.

Too late to refund due to concerns?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
×
×
  • Create New...